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[Norm]

Sorry Robin, hope I wasn't part of wearing you down I've been good lately

[PeteF]

Oh, is it a EFI Bighaz? Or the last of the Classics (some were first registered in 2009)
If it is EFI it should be OK but the advice about getting the clutch right still stands. Also, slack chains can cause sloppy gear changes.

[simon]

The trouble really lies in the rather low quality construction of the clutch as a whole. Gwilly is right you need to pull it apart and check the trueness of the plates. If they aren't straight then they never clear properly and as the bike warms up the clutch gets hot and misbehaves even more. I'd be interested to hear what the replacement sets are like. If they are properly made then its probably worth the money to swap them. I found a couple of mine were dished and managed to beat them flat with a hide hammer. I ran all of them up on the lathe and got them all running pretty true. Mine was from the early 90's and I think this was a nadir in the quality control at Madras. The difference between the Indian on and the old Reddich one was dramatic. Still after shagging around with it for a while I have it working fine and with the extra strong spring set it even copes with the enormous bhp of the tweaked Bitsa.

[marsie]

The problem is often that people run the clutch in ATF and worse still fill telescopic forks with the stuff. ATF is a complicated formular with friction additives and designed for old style car gearboxes. Not motorcycle clutches and certainly not hydraulically damped forks.

[PeteF]

Well, I've been running the clutch in ATF for years with no problem. (Mr H recommends it)

[Alan R]

Hi guys------- I use ATF both in my forks ( along with STANDARD springs---the progressive type I found a bit too soft initially for my style)... The anti-shear properties in particular are very useful, and in the primary chaincase where it's light weight and enhanced lubrication means it won't promote clutch slip ie}-- it doesn't stay on the surface of the plates etc.......... Here's the Tech. Stuff to go with your coa-coa tonight}---------- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_ ... sion_fluid --------------

[Peter 53]

Simon - I think that when it comes to these matters, you must be one of the most knowledgable people on this forum... after fitting the gearbox stiffener recently I had to replace the spring clip for the foot lever - now I'm experiencing clutch slip mainly in 3rd and 4th gear. So I am back to the clutch adjuster for fine tuning (opening up the primary and checking trueness of all components is something I will also have to do, I know) and I note your comments regarding your 1st reply to Bighazz... when I put the bike in 1st gear with the clutch in, the kickstart moves the bike forward when operated, so more clearance is required? Does this mean I need to slacken the adjuster nut off? many thanks,
Peter.

[Leon Novello]

Hi Marsie: ATF-type F; for Fords does not have friction modifiers. According to Pete Snidal, this is what should be used in motorcycle clutches. Although I find it too grippy and have gone back to engine oil; SAE 20 or 30. Which is what I use in my Briggs and Stratton engined- lawn mower.
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/clutches.htm

[simon]

Many more qualified than me here but I have had a fairly intensive period of clutch work recently so I am match fit! Slipping is slipping and the reason it does it in third and top is that these are the ratios that require the most torque. Even with the cover stiffener the adjustment is very limited and so I suggest you back it off a bit. I generally try and make sure that there is a minimal amount of slack at the actuating arm (where the cable attaches). If there is any pre load on the clutch rod you are likely to wear it out so I would suggest you start from not enough clutch clearance rather than too much. If it still slips it could be time for some stronger springs but if the motor is standard it shouldn't need them. Good luck with it. S:)

[Norm]

Can I just add I HATE ENFIELD CLUTCHES, there I feel better now