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By Adrian
#80836
Marko, both your diagram and Davidup's use the classic Lucas rotary light switch mounted in the casquette rather than the Minda handlebar switch Zelda used, and if you're not using indicators that is probably a better solution than the Minda. However, once you've noted the AC wiring differences with the Minda switch (hope to get it first time, next time!) it is still very good for custom wiring installations.



A.
By John L
#80843
Adrian - It certainly looks like you are on to something with the Minda switch ! I was not familiar with the internal connections of this, but it's a good thing you are ! (And as I have considered using one if I ever decide to fit indicators - thanks.........)
Re the wiring diagrams supplied by Davedup and Marko, I would question the wisdom of recommending them to Zelda for him to follow -
both would need modification, both have original Lucas 31491A lighting switches and Marko's has magneto ignition, not coil (or the
Lucas 34093B ign. switch. Furthermore, both have original colour codes to the wiring, rather than a length of shonky 7-core trailer cable and both are wired POSITIVE EARTH - something apparently overlooked ............

I suggest that if Zelda needs a wiring diagram to follow, he'd be much better off doing so with a 1646 wiring harness with all the correct colours that he or any subsequent owner (or AA/RAC man, etc.in the case of a breakdown) could relate to with ease and the lessened risk of a wrong connection........

Zelda has not stated his reason for the polarity change to negative earth, but I suspect that it was purely for the reason that it was the way it was in the original diagram.....
By Marko
#80844
Hi John & Adrian, no I wasn't suggesting Zelda use my diagram, rather i was hoping it would make some sense to him - I missed the bit re its a Minda switch (something of which I have zero experience) and assumed his lighting switch was a rotary Lucas job, that along with his use of a similar regulator/rectifier made me think thit might be of use. Never mind. As far as ignition systems go I've always made independent wiring circuits for them on all of my bikes, be they royal enfield or triumph - I make my own wiring looms - anyway that's all irrelevant. I still cant get my head around Zeldas wiring diagram but I do wish him good luck sorting his bike out
By John L
#80847
Marko - "bloody computers"........yep, know what you mean......my posts seldom (if ever) appear as I intend ....when they don't simply disappear into the ether, that is....
User avatar
By Adrian
#80993
Our next installment from Zelda will hopefully tell us a bit more. I wouldn't describe trailer flex as shonky, though John, just use the heavyweight version which can handle a bit more load. It has served my AVL/Redditch hybrid (which I wired +ve earth!) very well. But there are plenty of suppliers on-line who will supply cable of sufficient rating in different Lucas solid and trace colours, including our hosts.



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A.
By John L
#81004
In the meantime, Zelda should maybe ignore my recommendation to use a 1646 harness......looking at Davedup's cable details, I recognised the cable colours used immediately, and in my enthusiasm overlooked the fact that this harness is for the original set-up of switches and that dreadful "split charge" arrangement. As Zelda's bike has already been converted away from this, he would be buying a lot of wiring that wouldn't be used.......
User avatar
By Adrian
#81007
One of the advantages of 12V conversions for late 50's/early 60's alternator bikes is indeed the simplified wiring. Just got to join the right bits!



A.
By Zelda
#81480
Thanks again for the thoughts on this. Looks like a re-rewire is needed and a correct light switch! However, i'd like to test the output of the alternator, and then the Reg1 unit to see what i'm getting.


Does anyone have a suggestion on which multimeter would be most suitable for this please? Mine is not particularly sensitive as it is a simple digital one. My alternator has two wires, what should I be getting from it?

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