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[AndrewA]

Ok, so with revs no lights it read between 13 and 14 depending on how hard I revved.
Negative reading on the negative terminal and bare metal.

[Daiwiskers]

The numbers do look good as Mr Stinkwheel said (Don't tell anyone but he's probably better than me when it comes to troubleshooting)
For those that are interested
A Stinkwheel is a two stroke motorcycle

Dam got side tracked again

To check resistance set the meter to ohms the symbol looks like a circle with two feet
As Stinkwheel said check between negative on battery and bare metal both on frame and motor

Good point with the side stand switch some can just be disconnected others need to have the two leads connected together to take them out of the circuit (spellin)

I'm off out so will leave you in Stinkwheel's more than capable hands

Cheers Dai

Edit just seen your post above voltage between battery negative and earth should always read 0v

Off to pub Dai

[AndrewA]

Cheers Dai.
Meant to say the side stand is nice and stiff with no signs that’s bouncing about when riding.

[stinkwheel]

The numbers do look good as Mr Stinkwheel said (Don't tell anyone but he's probably better than me when it comes to troubleshooting)
For those that are interested
A Stinkwheel is a two stroke motorcycle

I'd maybe say I have a fair bit of experience of trying to make broken motorbikes get me to work the next day.... The first thing you'd do with a 2t when it's misbehaving is change the plug.... Which in fairness, is never a wrong thing to do.

I'm no good with fuel injection though, no experience with it so if it's an injection glitch, I'm no use at all. That said, there's an old saying that 90% of fuelling problems are electrical.

I think those models have a rev counter? With an electronic ignition system, if it loses the spark, the rev counter usually drops to zero. So when it cuts out on your 2nd to 3rd shift, if it's a fuelling glitch, the rev counter ought to match the engine speed even if it's not actually running. If it's an electrical problem, the rev counter will probably drop to zero despite the fact that the engine is still doing a few thousand RPM. May help to narrow it down some.

Has it popped bulbs since the reg/rec was replaced because that's an odd thing to happen if the voltage regulation is working correctly.

[AndrewA]

Easy answers first, plug replaced, yep bulb issues started post new regulator, one headlight and 2 rear so far.

Strange thing is, since the new regulator she starts and runs better…well until it stalls.

I am not 100% sure what the rev counter did when it stalls, but I am sure it went to zero and the battery light came on.

I’ll see if I can get out for a daylight spin over next couple of days and double check though.

[Daiwiskers]

As the numbers look good I would be checking for a lose connection or a chaffed wire somewhere

The side stand switch collects all sort's of crud and water from the front wheel

Blowing bulbs I tend to use osram bulb's they seem to stand up to vibration better than the cheaper bulbs

Like stinkwheel I am better with carbs and point's than more modern bikes with black magic electronic boxes

To be honest I don't think there's a lot wrong but it may be a headache to find
Don't give up you will feel great when you get it sorted Dai

[Daiwiskers]

RE: GT 535 CUTTING OUT WHEN WET, 10 MINUTES LATER AT RUNNING TEMPERATURE NO ISSUE?
By Haggis
- Sat Oct 16, 2021 6:52 pm#98603
They use normal H4 12v 55/60w headlight bulbs.
Oem battery is rubbish and fail very quickly.
Wires too and from the battery are prone to fracture due to vibes plus small earth wire for ecu can break under the shrink wrap at the negative terminal.
R/R are not the most robust .
You really need to check the voltage as Diawiskers says.

Cut and past from another 535 thread
Not sure how to do a quote from one thread to another
Haggis may be on to something here
Wonder if there's the same fault on both bikes similar problems could be worth giving battery terminals a tug with the bike running could be lose connection at the battery or failed wires connecting battery

[stinkwheel]

The RR was presumably replaced for a reason, it could have lightly toasted other componants when it was faulty. Battery would not appreciuate being over/under charged for any prolonged period. Likewise black boxes, stator windings and even wiring itself can get on the crispy side.

Anyone got a procedure for testing the alternator windings (dynamic and static)? If you were missing a charging phase, it could all go a bit sideways. You could get an adequate voltage output when measured at the battery but it could be a "dirty" signal with fluctuations in the DC voltage from 2/3 of an overlapping halfwave if you were missing a phase. I could see that causing issues with electronics.

[Daiwiskers]

T think the 535s have a diagnostics system fitted unfortunately I don't know how to get access to it or if it would help by showing stored codes or if it only shows live active code's

Perhaps someone reading can help access the codes

Off topic I get fed up with people knocking the door asking me to put out the engine light on their car
They don't believe me when I tell them I have to do the repair before the light will stay out

Unfortunately we don't have a OBD socket on our bikes and have to test new fangled gismo's with old fangled meter's

Back to head scratching Dai

[Haggis]

You have a test wire to read the ecu fault codes.
I think it is under the seat on the 535.?
You connect it to earth and then switch on the ignition.
The mil will light up and then go out as normal.
It will then start to flash a series of long and short flashes.
Current fault first, if there is one? Followed by any old stored codes.
Codes can be cleared.
1. Ground diagnostic wire (the single wire with a female bullet connector
next to the ECU) to a clean part of the chassis, or to the Negative side of
the battery.
2. Set the kill switch to the run position.
3. Hold the throttle fully open.
4. Turn the key on. MIL light will illuminate for a few seconds.
5. As soon as the MIL light goes out (NOT before), and before the MIL
comes on again, about 6 seconds, release the throttle.
6. There will be a couple fast blinks after that to let you know the code(s)
are cleared.
Codes are slightly different from euro 3 to euro4.

MIL BLINK CODES DESCRIPTION
Euro3,
MIL will glow continuous. Engine will start but not perform to its potential.
LONG 0 SHORT 6 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 0 SHORT 9 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 1 SHORT 1 Engine oil Temperature (TE) circuit malfunctioning
LONG 1 SHORT 7 O2 Sensor circuit malfunctioning
LONG 4 SHORT 5 O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunctioning

MIL will glow continuous. Engine will NOT Start but will crank.
LONG 1 SHORT 5 Rollover Sensor circuit malfunctioning
LONG 3 SHORT 3 Injector circuit malfunctioning
LONG 3 SHORT 7 Ignition Coil circuit malfunctioning
LONG 4 SHORT 1 Fuel Pump circuit malfunctioning
LONG 6 SHORT 6 Crankshaft position circuit malfunctioning

Euro4,
MIL will glow continuous. Engine will start but not perform to its potential
Long 0 Short 6 Throttle position sensor Malfunction
Long 0 Short 9 Manifold Air Pressure sensor Malfunction
Long 1 Short 2 Engine oil temperature sensor Malfunction
Long 1 Short 3 Intake Air temperature sensor Malfunction
Long 1 Short 7 O2/HEGO Sensor Malfunction
Long 4 Short 5 O2 Sensor heater circuit Malfunction
Long 5 Short 4 EXAI Circuit Malfunction

MIL will glow continuous. Engine will NOT start but will crank
Long 6 Short 6 Crankshaft position sensor Malfunction
Long 1 Short 5 Roll over sensor Malfunction
Long 3 Short 3 Fuel Injector Circuit Malfunction
Long 3 Short 7 Ignition Coil Circuit Malfunction
Long 4 Short 1 Fuel pump relay circuit Malfunction
Long 7 short 0 Vehicle/Wheel speed sensor Malfunction( only for Continental GT Model)