Forum

[Wolffman]

Dear all,

for this oldie we have overcome the problem of the Lucas Magneto (it was melted the isolator fluid inside and stucked like honey and was the reason for the probelm of not beeing able to kick it down).

So theoretically everthing went right and that dammend thing started at once! Perfect - nearly.

There is no oil pressure on the gauge in the tank and I have no idea, what could be the reason. Therefore I hope some of the guys can give me som e advice:

1) What oil ist the right engine oil for such an old engine SAE50 or 30 or different

2) What could be the reason for no oil pressure or how to test best (a litte oil comes out of the central screw)

3) How to change the oil probably and the filling quantity of this single 500ccm engine

Maybe there are some experianced lads, which know this old iron and how it ticks,

Thanks in advance and stay safe

Clemens from Vienna

[Adrian]

Here's the workshop maintenance manual online for the post-war models J and G, the engine on yours will be pretty much the same.

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycl ... a&_xt=.pdf

I previously posted a reply to your magneto question with a link to our hosts' reprint of the owner's manual. I hope this is of help to you.

A.

[Wolffman]

Hi Adrian, thanks a lot - of course i downloaded this pdf already.

Tonight we made some progress by disassemble the steering cover and pump, spindle, worm gear and found out thiz is perfectly fine!

As this old engine have the oil pressure via pipe - which seems to be different to the newer models from this manual - however we learned not there is a cork some where there.

Struggle is we have no idea if this iz mounted inside the worm screw, outside or somewhere different.

Is there any possibility to get an idea from my sketch, as i dont know where the cork is exactly put ?

Thanks a trillion! CLEMENS

[Adrian]

So if I may re-post your picture from last time...



The oil pressure gauge feature does not seem to have reappeared on post-war models, but the oil feed to the crank looks very similar otherwise. My best guess, in the absence of someone who knows these models better, is that the cork seal sits IN the worm nut in exactly the same way as the post-war models, the only difference here being that the oil feed plug is extended to act as a banjo bolt for the feed to the oil pressure gauge.

This is one of our hosts' pictures showing a (much) later Indian-made worm nut with a neoprene seal, but the cork seal fits in the worm nut on the older models in the same position. Does this help?



Not a bad drawing, by the way, we only need a rough sketch to see what you mean.

A.

[Bullet Whisperer]

There will probably be a roller big end in this machine, so it is unlikely there will be much in the way of oil pressure, maybe only a couple of pounds, if that. 20 / 50 mineral oil will be fine, just try to see if there is a good flow, when the engine is running. There is also a take off from the oil feed side to a passageway to send oil through holes near the bottom of the liner, to the bore and piston, so this is another way for any oil pressure to be lost.

[Bullet Whisperer]

This video might be of interest. I notice there is an oil filter chamber in your timing cover - if this is from another, later machine, make sure all the oilways between the timing cover and crankcase correspond.
https://youtu.be/ZTW-EC1kmCk

[tribonnie]

Hello, if I understand correctly you have made your own Oil Feed Plug which is extended to take a banjo for the oil pressure gauge. So does the tube on the new plug fully extend into the cork oil seal. Check the length of modified plug and banjo against standard plug. Also do the oil feed holes in the new plug align with the oil ways in the timing cover. Is the oil circulating when you run the engine, ie. is oil getting to the rockers. If not suggest the oil is leaking into the timing cover and hence no pressure. Richard

[Wolffman]

Hi Guys,

thanks very much for your support, It's really not easy to be a Cheesey, when you work on this bike due to the "special features" my age doesn't know any more.

If I'm right understanding from the research about it

I take this cork soak it in warm water for an hour, then grease a bit with engine oil and press it like a cork of a redwine bottle into the worm nut (man that' s a double meaning sentence ) until roughly the edge of the cork is smooth with the nut.
Then I will take the hollow feeder screw and grease the surface and screw it in (again ), one time demount again to check everything to smoothness and fire it up.

Thanks in advance and greatings from Vienna!

Clemens

[Wolffman]

Hello,

Its me again with some happiness and some new issue.
All the other operations went well, but before hitting the jackpot this dammed hollow screw from this banjo joint gave up and broke during the softest tensioning i ever did!

Does zomebody know where to find such a screw? as i can't find in the Bullet spares

Happiness last was running, oil was feeding, we did a blind screw inside, so everything is fine but the test with the manometer for oil still open.

Could you please help me and save us from insanity ,
Stay safe and healthy

Clemens from Vienna

[Adrian]

Can you just confirm which banjo bolt this is? Is this for the oil line to the rockers or for the oil feed to the crankshaft?

Besides Hitchcocks' vast supply of parts and the odd bit of knowledge you might pick up here, I think you might also benefit with some help from a German-speaking RE enthusiast.

If you go on to the USA Royal Enfield forum here:

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php

you can sign up (the USA forum is actually administered by Hitchcocks'!), and on the vintage Royal Enfield section here:

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?board=5.0

look for a forum member calling himself Grumbern, who lives next door to you in Germany, he is also a very skilled technical person who does a lot of his own machining and alloy welding. Get in touch with him, I'm sure he will be willing to help you.

A.