- Sat Sep 05, 2020 8:49 am
#92743
Worth remembering the main point of "synthetic" oils which is they will take longer to break down and start to lose their lubricating properties and correct viscosity when under stress. So a fully synthetic oil will effectively last longer.
Taken to extremes, I have a friend who uses "royal purple" engine oil in his 1100cc air-cooled endurance race bike. This stuff is super expensive. The engine gets a full strip down and rebuild after each race but he catches the oil, runs it through a filter and puts it back in again for the next race.
So while you can question the point of using synthetics in a bullet, it's certainly not wrong.
I'm pretty sure the amount of sludging that happens is more down to the detergent content. As I implied above, on old engines with no oil filter, sludging was desirable so any particulate matter settled and accumulated in the bottom of the sump/oil tank and could be drained off. Hence the practice of flushing engines with thinner flushing oil during an oil change to remove the sludge. On an engine with a filter, it's desirable for any particulate to remain suspended in the oil so it can be caught and removed by the filter. Also why that infamous video of the Indian streeet mechanic flushing the hell out of a UCE motor with oil then petrol is so cringeworthy.
So in an ideal world, in an iron barrel bullet, you'd use a fully synthetic oil with a high detergent content and as many friction modifiers as they can cram in there. In the real world, it's probably an unecessary expense.
Another thing worth considering -which has given synthetics a bad rep over the years- is if you start putting high detergent oils in a motor which is a bit worn and hasn't been using them, it will start to flush deposits away from where they have built up. All of a sudden they start burning oil. The oil didn't cause it, it just unmasked it.
Used to be a common thing in the forces when someone pinched military spec oil for their old beater car. The military oil has a LOT of detergent in it. The car would start smoking like hell and running like a dropped toolbox falling down the stairs.
Taken to extremes, I have a friend who uses "royal purple" engine oil in his 1100cc air-cooled endurance race bike. This stuff is super expensive. The engine gets a full strip down and rebuild after each race but he catches the oil, runs it through a filter and puts it back in again for the next race.
So while you can question the point of using synthetics in a bullet, it's certainly not wrong.
I'm pretty sure the amount of sludging that happens is more down to the detergent content. As I implied above, on old engines with no oil filter, sludging was desirable so any particulate matter settled and accumulated in the bottom of the sump/oil tank and could be drained off. Hence the practice of flushing engines with thinner flushing oil during an oil change to remove the sludge. On an engine with a filter, it's desirable for any particulate to remain suspended in the oil so it can be caught and removed by the filter. Also why that infamous video of the Indian streeet mechanic flushing the hell out of a UCE motor with oil then petrol is so cringeworthy.
So in an ideal world, in an iron barrel bullet, you'd use a fully synthetic oil with a high detergent content and as many friction modifiers as they can cram in there. In the real world, it's probably an unecessary expense.
Another thing worth considering -which has given synthetics a bad rep over the years- is if you start putting high detergent oils in a motor which is a bit worn and hasn't been using them, it will start to flush deposits away from where they have built up. All of a sudden they start burning oil. The oil didn't cause it, it just unmasked it.
Used to be a common thing in the forces when someone pinched military spec oil for their old beater car. The military oil has a LOT of detergent in it. The car would start smoking like hell and running like a dropped toolbox falling down the stairs.