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[Adrian]

Older magneto style ignition won't manage that amount of resistance but is recommended for you modern efi with ecu controlled coil ignition.

Among my collection of older magnetos is a Lucas SR1 which I think came off something agricultural rather then a Bullet or Matchless, it has/had an impulse starter and runs clockwise from the drive end. This has a 10 ohm resister plug cap on its plug lead and still chucks out an excellent spark.

A.

[Cranky]

Ok listen up. I have been quiet for a while till I sorted this out. I had made a mistake. Today I removed the casing and took a long hard look , I had the thing 10 degrees retarded instead of 10 degrees advance. I now have the complete confidence to know what I have done and explain it to you.

The copy carb at 20 quid is brilliant , the slide is brass and chromed , if its a copy I don't care I will buy another in a heart beat. Ive worked on many carbs and this is good.

The wiring was completely removed --every thing--nothing tucked up under the tank. Heat sensor, exhaust sensor, map sensor TPI sensor and that silly thing that stops the engine when you fall over. The kick stand relay the clutch relay, errm have I for got anything because that went too.

The flywheel had all the ECU lugs and tabs removed. A tab of 40mm was made from 1/8th by 1/4 bar and tack welded so as the 'trailing' edge was 10 degrees before TDC.. This was machined to 13.55mm from inside the rotor to the outside of the tab to bring air gap of 12 thou.

The ECU was cut out mercilessly with all sensors . what you have left is a bike without engine. All you need is 4 wires with a DC CDI --- trigger, sensor, Earth and a DC feed from the kill.

There you go a conversion for 30 quid.

[Adrian]

I think our hosts still want to sell a few more of theirs!

a.

[Cranky]

Yes I am sure many will go for the easy tuck up under the tank system. I understand that what I have done will need a lot of experience and wont be suitable for many. This conversion was not intended for them but for the few who could.

Thing about the tuck away system you still have all the sensors connected to your ECU which for me was the reason to do this conversion and to rid the bike of all that crap. I have no Idea if the ECU is still giving out correct ign timing in this way.

I had read on the internet and even seen you tube clips of the looms being replaced along with the flywheel in India where parts are very cheap and available everywhere. I would have thought that a place like India with cheap labour would have done the same thing but no.

Just for fun-- I don't like Golf,-- not old enough.

Oh by the way the MIL light is now and engine oil pressure warning light from the head temp sensor. I can tell you that there is not much pressure there. A normal oil pressure sw is 7psi and it will flicker at idle. Not surprising really being so far down the line and not in the immediate pressure as it should be.

Ive read some drill and thread into the oil filter housing.

[Haggis]

The cylinder head feed is taken directly from the main oil filter housing.
Online videos show the pressure in the main housing to be around 60 psi at normal running speeds.
There is no tuck away on an efi as all the sensors are removed along with the throttle body.
The only thing that needs to be attached is the injector body, or an equivalent resistor.
Efi ecu won't operate without a suitable resistance on that circuit.
Happy days.

[Cranky]

I honestly dont know but if the fuel pump is removed and the plug left hanging with all the other stuff I very much doubt the ECU is doing its job as it was meant to do. For instance if there is no reading from Exhaust temp sensor or more importantly the air flow and the TPS is at zero you are going to get one very confused ECU.

From a simple conversion point of veiw all you need is Ign timing control and I don't think you will get it starving the ECO of almost all the information it is meant to receive.

It may very well put the injector into limp mode but I doubt the RE Mikhuni ECU is that intelligent but I doubt that it will be in high performance advance.

[Cranky]

Its a bit weak. Must be on choke even in this 35 degrees heat. Its difficult to drive away but plenty of wrist wriggling and it soon gets warmed up. This might be ok for some but not for me --I mean you don't have to do that to a Cadilac.

Some needles arrived yesterday--5 of them for 2 pounds fifty delivered to my house by a girl on a scooter. Each one having a cirlip . They are huge and measure 3.5mm. Will certainly need some adjustment.

So I held the original gently in the drill and with a flat rat file just gently rubbed off a few thou.

I had also made the idle jet too small. I only have the one idle jet at the moment but 10 more on its way by girl on scooter maybe today--again 2 pound fifty.

I had made the idle jet a bit too big and then too small but with air screw at 1.75 its not too bad.

You can make the jet bigger with a dental root canal drill , titanium and very sharp. To make them small you solder the end up and drill a new hole !!!!

[Rattlebattle]

The EFI on my C5 (2015) is Keihin. I don’t know about the Euro IV models. I have read elsewhere that unlike most manufacturers, RE does not have the right from Keihin to issue map updates eg to improve issues that come to light when a new model is launched ( MT07 Yamaha for example) or to remap for an approved aftermarket exhaust (Triumph / Arrow for example). So we are left with either a Power Commander or a carb conversion. The original carb conversion was as or more expensive than a Power Commander, as it replaced the generator and ECU. When I ordered my later version I asked Hitchcocks why they had changed to the simplified system. They told me that they had found no difference in how the engine runs with this system, something that I have found empirically to be true. OK, nobody really knows the full details of what is going on in the ECU when the various sensors are disconnected, though I feel that it is likely the fuel injection side is separate from the ignition. A lot of owners have happily fitted the carb conversion. It reminds me of the bumblebee - physics apparently dictates that it shouldn’t fly, yet it does. There is clearly something that makes it work that we don’t understand.
Whilst I admire your work in developing a cheaper alternative system for using a carb, I feel that empirically there is nothing wrong with the Hitchcocks conversion; certainly mine has started and run better than it ever did with the EFI.

[Cranky]

I am most definately not competeing with any one. Where I live there is a huge RE dealers up on the highway but although thier workshops seem to be busy or at least commensurate with the amount of bikes sold I needed to rid the bike of all the foreign stuff like heat sensors and injectors,TPS air flow side stand relays clutch relay, and that silly thing that cuts the engine if you lean over too far--- like you I am unsure of just what happens to the ECU when half the information is reduced or incomplete.

My modification is rid of anything that RE could make claim to. If it stopped on the highway in 35 degrees it is no joke, walking 5 km would be life threatening.

I do have now a very very simple system and if anything was needed,any of the ubiquitous motorcycle shops would have a coil or TCI,---and that would be about all I could possible need.

[Rattlebattle]

I didn’t say you were competing; the point I was making is simply that despite what anyone may think the Hitchcocks conversion works fine. That’s all. Nothing against what you have chosen to do either.