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By PeteF
#90632
On the new euro 4 models there is a proper adjustment mechanism at last.
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By Wheaters
#90635
Adrian wrote:
Wed Jun 10, 2020 7:19 pm
"Protocol" sounds far too posh for any Royal Enfield.
A.
I'm about to use some "protocol" and a bit of elbow grease on my other, "modern" bike (a 1991 Honda CB750 Nighthawk).

I had to buy a chain breaker kit for that bike - the bike came from the factory with an endless chain and the only other way to get it off is to remove the swing arm; the new one uses a rivetted link in any case.

Surprisingly, the Honda chain size is slightly narrower than the one on my 350 Bullet, it's only a 525 as opposed to RE's 530. The D.I.D. heavy duty "X ring" chain is slightly more expensive than the one I recently bought for the 350 but the sprockets are far cheaper; I found a top quality rubber cush drive front one for only about a third of the cost of a plain one for the Bullet!
By Rattlebattle
#90638
I would imagine that the smaller chain size on the Honda is because the engine is a lot smoother and doesn’t have the chain-wrecking power pulses of the RE.
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By Wheaters
#90639
Rattle, I’m sure you’re right. The Nighthawk is a very smooth running bike, almost the complete opposite of the Bullet. It’s the only bike I’ve ridden where I can hear the tyre noise over and above the engine.

Because mine was a Japanese home market version, it has very quiet silencers, even more quiet than the American version. There was a British version called the F2N, but with different looks it’s not as stylish in my opinion.
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By Tincan3
#95661
I am relatively new to my RE Classic Euro4 500 'Tribute'. So I looked at the manual for advice on wheel alignment when adjusting the chain and it suggested using a taut string against the tyres. This is not logical to me since the tyres are different widths (fore 90 mm, rear 110 mm). Then I discovered the slots in the swing arm are different lengths. The axle washers are also different diameters so counting the adjuster vertical lines from the edge of the washers or from the slot endings does not work. There is a vertical groove mark below each slot that is the same length from the swingarm ends. However, unless you know the number of the vertical line on the adjuster each side cannot be matched (assuming the adjuster marks are matched!). In the end I measured from the axle centre to the middle of the swingarm bearing plastic cover and matched that on each side.
Tensioning the suspension with a jack or rachet straps is a good idea though. As stated, it only needs to be done once.
By vince
#95663
Hi Wheaters , the model your thinking of is an OEC ST3. A chain ran from the gearbox to a shaft concentric with swingarm pivot then a second chain from there to rear wheel. There was also another variation where there were two idler sprockets mounted above and below the swingarm pivot . This created a triangle with the gearbox sprocket. Amazing what info your remember over the years. Vince
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By Wheaters
#95664
It is amazing. I remember that you already told me that in June last year in post #602.... :lol:
By Jon Hill
#95673
Play will be at the minimum when the swinging arm is parallel to the ground in most cases. Velocette used to provide a strap to bolt across the suspension bolts and lock everything up at this. It shouldn't be too difficult to make something similar for most machines.

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