Forum

[Jools G]

You can seal up the hole in the oil compartment using Milliput.

It's a two-part epoxy putty that I've found invaluable over the years. It's mould-able, will stick to a prepared surface and never fall off, and is impermeable.

I've used it to repair holed fuel tanks, rocker covers, and even to join the snapped-off piston to the con-rod of a tyre compressor. I never really expected the latter to work but the little pump still works like a Trojan!

Milliput can be sourced from model shops (and the internet I daresay).

[vince]

Hi, I believe the hole in the inner case is an oil level, excess oil flows into primary case . Vince

[Dave the Bass]

Thanks for the advice Vince and Jools .

Not much has happened really of late, I've carried on cleaning and sorting out bits and bobs ready to go into 'storage' to free up some working space in the Lab.

Remember I said a lot of the parts were dirty, really dirty...







Stripped and cleaned...



This CB shaft oil seal was a pickle to get out but I've done it...


Close-up of the Roller race, I need to get this out at sometime, the seal is out now...



Some sort of liquid metal repair here at sometime?



Boxed-up.


'bits'...


...and bobs cleaned and organised (a bit)...


Bucket full 'o' electricity....


Pity the cream coloured inner housing plastic is breaking up, headlamp and bracketry is OK (IMO)...




Tank is (fibreglass) and posibly beyond use with modern fuel but cleans up well in a test place...




Does this marking on the flywheel of the crank mean its been ground 20thou under already I wonder?


More numbers meaning something on the conrod, I'm sure I cam detect play in the big end bearing not unsurprisingly.....


Looks like its had a hard life...


Something is sheared-off in the this hole I think...


Looking tired, and the thread down there where the oil feed screws may be damaged as I can't get this part https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycl ... pages%2F95 which is number '17' here https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/p ... k-pages/95 to successfully screw in here....

[PetePete]

QUOTE "Something is sheared-off in the this hole I think...
"

Just a cross drilling for an oil way, its then plugged up at the factory when new. It might look non standard, but this is like it on all of these 250 cranks.

[vince]

Hi, you appear to have an early crank, the conrod is secured by nuts. Late 250s have Allen bolts. I understand the latter were stronger. Vince.

[OldBoy67]

IMHO If its an early crank and rods you need to get rid before their weaknesses get found out. They certainly can't have been in the original crankcase when it left the factory. The attached image shows what can happen if you are not careful. In this case the rod was suspect..........
In answer to your one of your other question - the numbers stamped on the rod and cap are to show that they are a pair. In other words the numbers should match.

[cathpeti85]

Hi,your correct it is the footrest/ brake pivot. The stud is very hard metal. I would be inclined to work from the inside of the frame has you have a nice recess to fill with wd40etc assurance invalidité. Regarding the bent frame I would first try and fit the crankcase into the frame as it may stress it the other way. Vince

You have a lot of work to do on your vehicle as far as I can see. I wish you lots of courage!

[Dave the Bass]

Just a cross drilling for an oil way, its then plugged up at the factory when new. It might look non standard, but this is like it on all of these 250 cranks.

Many thanks PetePete, I'm living and learning as we go!

Hi, you appear to have an early crank, the conrod is secured by nuts. Late 250s have Allen bolts. I understand the latter were stronger. Vince.

Oh! Now I wasn't expecting that.

Is it possible to use this crank in the GT250 rebuild if I fit a later/new strong Con rod from our hosts? I've got a good engine rebuild shop locally I can get any regrind or engineering done at thankfully. Most work I'm hoping to do myself though.

IMHO If its an early crank and rods you need to get rid before their weaknesses get found out. They certainly can't have been in the original crankcase when it left the factory. The attached image shows what can happen if you are not careful. In this case the rod was suspect..........
In answer to your one of your other question - the numbers stamped on the rod and cap are to show that they are a pair. In other words the numbers should match.

My goodness OldBoy, thats a whopping horrible hole , expensive too I'd imagine.

Yes, the crank wasn't in the cases when I purchased the pile of its, it literally was just a pile of bits in the corner of a garage. Not the best way to buy a project I know but emotion got the better of me

You have a lot of work to do on your vehicle as far as I can see. I wish you lots of courage!

Thank you cathpeti, yes, lots of courage and even more money and spare parts would be very handy!

I'm hoping to be able to collect some more parts still owning from the seller once lockdown has been lifted and travel restrictions are eased here.