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User avatar
By Gunnar
#86886
That´s a good idea! I will keep the original wiring intact, take an extra feed from the battery (not exactly what I wanted, but anyway) and use the three empty spaces in the fuse holder for my accessories. I have just learned how to back out the connectors in the holder. Possibly also arrange for a switched live as you suggest. I plan to install a small "smart" LED somewhere at the handle bar that I have tinkered with to indicate if the charging isn´t sufficient.
User avatar
By stinkwheel
#86887
Gunnar wrote:
Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:54 pm
I plan to install a small "smart" LED somewhere at the handle bar that I have tinkered with to indicate if the charging isn´t sufficient.
If only Royal Enfield would come up with some way to tell if there was charge going into your battery! They could mount it in the casquette.

Maybe some sort of meter that measures the quantity and direction of current flow...

I'm assuming the later EFIs no longer come fitted with an ammeter?
User avatar
By stinkwheel
#86888
Looking at pictures, they don't have an ammeter but the hole for one is still there. It would in theory be possible to fit an ammeter and move the two LED warning lights. You could put the low fuel one in where the ammeter backlight normally goes and locate the engine management light somewhere else. If you wanted to.

I'd be tempted to, enfields had an ammeter there for what? 65/70 years? It would mean taking the wiring for the charging system up through the dash though.
User avatar
By windmill john
#86891
Not to deviate from the thread (okay a tiny bit!)

My 350 Bullet, 2002, has an ammeter and lithium battery. I’ve never seen the needle go over zero.
I’ve seen it a tad under when going over TDC, but that’s the only movement seen.

Not an issue, charging okay. Maybe design? Maybe lithium battery?... anyway. Just an observation.


John
User avatar
By Wheaters
#86892
John, mine is the same, except having TCI ignition, the needle doesn't kick when the points open - because there aren't any. I reckon it shows the charging system and battery are in good order.
User avatar
By stinkwheel
#86893
Not much draw on an AC/DC system normally, the lights are the main source of power draw on the bike. The ammeter only checks the DC.

The horn is probably the single biggest draw on the DC system. Sound the horn with the engine off and you'll see it dip into the red.

What's probably more relevant is if it swings WAY into the green. This means the voltage regulator failed and it's about to cook your alternator. I didn't read this for what it was and carried on, assuming it was a fault with the ammeter. If it ever happens again, I'm stopping immediately, disconnecting the reg/rec and running on total loss to get home. Then I hopefully just need a reg rec rather than a reg/rec, stator and battery.
User avatar
By Gunnar
#86900
Would you say that over-charging due to faulty regulator is common and just as important to keep track of as under-charging due to too high consumption? Perhaps I should re-design my very simple charging LED to also indicate overcharging. I was initially in to installing a LED voltmeter, such as the one offered by our host, but thought "less is more" and are now looking at a solution with just one LED indicating when something is wrong.
User avatar
By stinkwheel
#86903
I've had reg/recs fail (both under and over-charging), I've had batteries fail. Undercharging is probably more likely, overcharging does more damage.

You can actually buy an off the shelf indicator LED that will show you both. Search for "charge warning LED" on the internet auction site of your choice. You get a single 10mm LED that has a green, amber, red system for charge level and a flashing red/green for overcharge. Cost less than a tank of petrol.

If you have the electrical know-how, I presume how they do this will be easy to replicate.
User avatar
By Davedup
#86905
windmill john wrote:Thanks chaps.

Wheaters, same as yours, PO fitted a Boyer.


John
Sorry coming in on someone elses thread, but I replaced a knackered zenor on my Super meteor with a Boyer and have noticed that the ammeter doesn't really get above the zero now. I had hoped that it was a feature of the boyer rather than a problem!
That's put my mind at rest.

Dave

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