- Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:17 am
#76250
It should still come out though, even if it is a doweled one it's just a very snug fit in the hole. However, I don't think that is one of the doweled ones, it's further under the engine. I think it's a plain stud, one of the ones the engine plate bolts to (the dowel one would be M6 and 75mm long, the plain one I think it is would be M8 and 114mm long). It even looks from the picture like it may be a little bent? I wonder if someone has substituted a piece of threaded bar for the proper stud?
Two suggestions for removal. Maybe even use a combination of the two. First is you could use the thread to wind it out. If you use 8mm ID tube/washers as spacers under the nut on one end and tighten it down, it should start to pull the stud out. Then use more washers/longer spacers to gradually get it out. Obviously, it might just start rotating which would be a pain but then again, this might indicate it's loose enough to drive out. You might be able to hold it still with a couple of nuts tightened down onto each other above the "working" nut if it starts spinning (or a single nut cut in half) but it wouldn't leave you a lot of thread for winding.
The other is applying heat. You should try this first. The tunnel in the alloy is towards the outside of the casing so you can get at the whole thing. Get it good and hot with either a blowlamp or heat gun then try tapping/winding it out. Alloy expands more quickly and by a bigger amount than steel when heated. Heating WILL loosen it. By plenty of heat, I mean hot enough for spit to hiss and oil to smoke when applied. You can't put enough heat onto a lump of alloy that big to melt holes in it, I spent about 45 minutes trying to get one hot enough to solder using a blowlamp the other week then gave up.
