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[Zelda]

Dear All,

Firstly, many thanks for the comments and advice, what a supportive community! I would also like to apologize for my delay in replying. Although I am part of the Thames Valley Branch of the owners club, I often work abroad so this restoration happens piece by piece. Not ideal I know, but it's all I can do for now.

The reason for the re-wire was lack of charging from the old system, installed sometime in the 80's. That 'upgrade' had included a switch to 12v, using a Hesketh reg/rec, which I could not get my head around, so decided to rewire myself to be sure. I had previously asked on the forum for anyone with a wiring diagram and was given a 12v one used on a crusader restoration. What you see on the link is that same diagram. Also, as spotted, it is incorrect with the pilots, I only have 2!

SO, to answer some of the questions and pose a couple myself;

1. The coil is 12v. I had used the one from the previous upgrade, but also installed a new one myself to double-check this strange heating anomaly
2. I installed A Reg1 supplied by Paul Goff. (Stator was Lucas)
3. I installed a Minda light switch (not the best fit!!)
4. Yes it is points ignition
5. The loom is new and made from a 7-core trailer cable as suggested by the wiring diagram, so unlikely to have any breakages
6. The +ve wire from the Reg/Rec is connected to the +ve coil in a 4-way junction box, as shown in the diagram

My questions;
1. If there is a leak (I suspect from the light switch), will it blow the reg/rec?
If the answer to 1 is correct, then this likely what has happened. If the Reg1 can be blown by an earth, this is not a positive argument for installing a Reg1 as it seem very risky to me. Perhaps however this is just an issue with the wiring set-up and not the reg1 itself.
2. Would you recommend the existing wiring diagram with the Reg1? But ensuring there are no earths at all through the suggested tests.
3. If no to 3, which diagram and units would you suggest for my rotor/stator and points set-up? (thank you for the link to the german restoration)

Many thanks again, I look forward to your replies. I hope you aren't too frustrated with me

Kind regards

[Zelda]

also, i had posted that in paragraphs, not one block of text! if anyone knows how to include line breaks please let me know so it can be read easier

[Davedup]

I have a 1960 model Super Meteor, I don't know if this will help but here is a photo of the wiring diagram that came with mine.

Since then I've removed the rectifier and zenor and replaced with a powerbox after the zenor when down.

Mine also runs electronic ignition









I don't know if the links will actually work as I can never seem to get it to work on here.
If not perhaps someone else could work their magic!

Dave

[Adrian]

Zelda!



Welcome back.



Something leapt out of your text at me: MINDA SWITCH!!!



These are fine for 12V conversions but remember they were intended for Indian Bullets with AC headlamps, so the wiring is just a little different. I have used these switches on two of my bikes with all DC systems and BOTH times I have been caught out by a silly little niggle. MAKE SURE THE YELLOW AND RED WIRE IS NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING, probably easiest to do this at the connector block from the switch wiring sub-loom if you haven't chopped it off. The 2.8mm connector can be prized out of its black with a jeweller's screwdriver.



What I would suggest is getting hold of a wiring description for the Minda, I'll have a look when I'm out in the garage shortly (brrrrr...) and I will be able to tell you exactly what wire is supposed to connect to what bit.



Paragraph breaks, type < b r > < b r > without the spaces, also good for separating pictures from text. This forum is all HTML driven.



A.

[Adrian]

OK, my reply crossed with Davidup's, his is pretty good for a 12V conversion using the original-type switchgear. Just substitute reg/rectifier for rectifier and zener diode.



You have also confirmed that you have the coil fed directly from the reg/rectifier - wrong - you do need the ignition switch BETWEEN the coil and the power source, see my **original** reply. Off to garage, will reply to your individual questions if no-one else beats me to it.



A.

[Adrian]

Back from garage with my recently in-use Minda switch in front of me. Wire colour/functions as follows:



In the 2 way green connector Blue = dipswitch to headlamp main beam, Green = dipswitch to dipped beam;



In the 4 way black connector Grey = speedo and tail light supply, Grey and Black = pilot/side light supply, Purple = horn to horn (earthing) button, White = supply to indicator switch the from flasher unit;



In the 4 way black connector unit, Red and White = the power supply to the switch from the ammeter, Blue = main beam warning light. (plain) Yellow is the headlamp flasher, can be wired to the main beam if you want it, Yellow and Red = DO NOT USE OR CONNECT TO ANYTHING;



That just leaves the two with the 3.9mm bullet ends. Black and White wire = indicator switch to left-hand indicators and Black and Green wire = indicator switch to right-hand indicators.



You haven't got indicators at the moment, I gather, but that's what those wires do.



With the lighting switch incorrectly wired I managed to get both dip and main beam coming on together, if that's what yours has been doing you can definitely expect a drained battery in very short order.



Any normal reg/rectifier should be OK when wired up properly, though they can still fail even when you do. But get it wrong and you'll kill it. I once managed to connect a battery the wrong way round and blow up a Boyer Power Box (the capacitor fluid boiled and the thing exploded quite spectacularly. Don't try this for yourselves).



As for the wiring diagram, have a close look at Davedup's then see if you can re-draw it for your switchgear. Suggest you post the result before you reach for the wire clippers.



A.

[Adrian]

WHOOOPS!

The yellow wire is the feed to the headlight, normally AC on the Minda Switch, but on a DC system this can be linked to the red and white wire from the ammeter to get some 12V to your headlight. Keep the Yellow and Red disconnected, though.



Sorry about that. Ahem



A.

[Marko]

This is the wiring diagram on my 1960 Connie, it may be of use to you (Zelda) at least re. the regulator/rectifier connections & the lighting switch. Dependant on the reg/rectifier used the diagram can be used for 6 or 12v bikes.

[Marko]

[Marko]

In the diagram I posted above: the brown from the ammeter goes to the battery - I accidently cropped it off. Still, I hope it helps..