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[555]

Hello, pulling the engine out to be sorted. Any special tools? Any tips ?

[RoSy]

Tip 1 . Take head & barrel off first to make it lighter. Tip 2. Support engine before the last bolts come out. Tip 3. Don't sit on the bike when the engine is out, they tend to bend in the middle.

[555]

All good stuff. Thanks

[Beezabryan]

Also strip & remove primary drive reduces weight

[Graham43]

Make sure you look after your back!!! They are heavy and awkward and seem to find a way to drop out of the frame in a way you haven't predicted.

[papasmurf]

May or may not help:-

[555]

Yes, seen that . It’s usually my first port of call, but nothing from start to finish. I will strap up the engine to the rafters.

[Leon Novello]

Another case of people who don`t know what they are doing, attempting to tell others how to do it. The camera/phone operator could also do a course on how to use a steady cam.

[stinkwheel]

Might be easier to remove the gearbox first. Again, makes things lighter. You can usually wind the studs out with a couple of nuts locked onto them. Although if you leave it attached, the kickstart makes a good handle/lifting point to get hold of on that side.



Standing astride over the frame keeps you lifting from your centre rather than over to one side and wrenching your back further than necessary but as above, don't sit on it because the frame springs apart. (I used camlock straps to pull it back into alignment when refitting the last engine I did, this helped greatly). Having a box next to the bike to put the engine on once it's out is also a good plan, then you are just lifting it across rather than putting it down again.



Remember the stands and front footpegs are attached to the engine plates. I lift mine up onto axle stands under each side of the swingarm then chock the wheel so it can't roll off them. Make a note/take a picture of which spacer tubes go where before undoing everything



I also found podgering the engine bolts out first with a slightly narrower bit of bar that is left in place until you are ready to slide them out by hand made the job easier. Similar thing for refitting, getting it all roughly aligned with the narrower bar in holding the engine in place means you can bully/wiggle it into a proper alignment for fitting the engine bolts without having to support the weight of the engine.



Strategic use of an old car scissor jack under the engine also helps to take the load off the engine mounting bolts to facilitate their removal/fitting.

[Barry N]

I propped the bike onto a pair of axle stands under the swinging arm, then supported the whole engine and gearbox underneath with a small trolley jack (cushioned with some wood), before removing the final mounting bolts. With a steady hand supporting the cylinder head I was then able to roll the whole lump out. (If memory serves, I think I removed the primary cases first though).