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[StogieRob]

Freedom.....  Freedommm....  FreedoMMM... Yeah, FREEDOM!!!!
So the front tire came off without much complaint.  So did most of the nuts holding on the various parts of the brake levers outside the drum.  This leads me to believe that the PO knew about this issue and had been inside the brake drum previously/recently...
Nevertheless, the tire now spins freely!  There’s also plenty of pad left on the brake shoes, so they don’t need to be replaced right now.  Now to wait a few days for the rust desolving chemicals to clean up the bits and pieces of the brake levers and fender supports.  I still have to haul up the electrolysis tub from the basement so I can de-rust the fender itself.  And the closest thing to British OD Green that I can get stateside without paying a fortune for shipping or the paint will be going on the metal by the end of next week.
So the current question for the audience:  what do you use for a rust/corrosion inhibitor/protectant for your bare metal parts?
Thanks!
Stogierob

[StogieRob]

Chris - Thanks for the pict.  i also found a video of someone who was taking apart their front brake drum.  Couldn't understand a word of what the gent was saying, but the video was clear and self-explanatory.
Rear wheel will be next, after the front is back on.  That'll be more of a process, not just for the chain, etc., but because I'll take the opportunity to remove as much of the rear metal to get it de-rusted and repainted.  I also need to shop our host's site for a lucas style license plate bracket with the very small round tail light.  I should like up a few other bits and pieces as shipping will be a bear to the US.
Being lazy, is the throttle cable stop, which is inside the plastic on the handlebar, something that can be reattached to the cable, or do I need a new cable?
Thanks!
StogieRob

[StogieRob]

Chris - Thanks for the pict.  i also found a video of someone who was taking apart their front brake drum.  Couldn't understand a word of what the gent was saying, but the video was clear and self-explanatory.
Rear wheel will be next, after the front is back on.  That'll be more of a process, not just for the chain, etc., but because I'll take the opportunity to remove as much of the rear metal to get it de-rusted and repainted.  I also need to shop our host's site for a lucas style license plate bracket with the very small round tail light.  I should like up a few other bits and pieces as shipping will be a bear to the US.
Being lazy, is the throttle cable stop, which is inside the plastic on the handlebar, something that can be reattached to the cable, or do I need a new cable?
Thanks!
StogieRob

[John M]

If you still have the locked wheel problem, it may be the rear brake, you will get a certain amount of movement from a locked rear brake as there is a cush-drive in the rear hub between the combined brake drum/sprocket and the hub.

There could be two issues, the shoes may have stuck to the brake drum, or less likely, the friction material may have become detached from the shoe and wedged between the remaining shoe and drum.

Either way if I were going to the trouble of removing a wheel I would replace the shoes whilst I was in there.