Forum

[StogieRob]

Hi, All!
to everyone to helped me with with my RE500, a HUGE thanks!
now i've bought this off ebay...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/dw3zYareWbHgGe9UA
and now i'm in completley over my head, so here we go...
The rear tire moves, but the bike doesn't roll freely.  the previous owner suggested that the clutch was sticking.  I figure this is problem #1 to resolve.  Any suggestions on how to confirm it's the clutch or how to clear a sticky clutch?  
Thanks!
StogieRob

[Leon Novello]

Hi Rob: Try this: Copy this:
https://imgbb.com/
then Start Uploading, in the picture library, click on the small box, top-right, picture will turn blue around the border, click OPEN in lower right of screen, click UPLOAD,takes a few seconds, in Embedded codes, click HTML full linked, scroll cursor over the viewer links, click COPY when it appears, menu will turn amber momentarily. Paste on Hitchcocks board.

[Norm]

Rob, freeing the clutch is simple, pull in the clutch and kick it over till it frees. My next question is it hard to push with it in neutral if so it isn't the clutch

[Mark M]

If the bike is in neutral then the clutch doesn't come in to it, it is out of the drive train. Try making sure the brakes are free, they can become 'sticky' in storage.

REgards, Mark

[Adrian]

+1 on the brakes. I once bought a previously restored English-built Bullet whose brake drums had started to rust-up while the bike was stored, as a result the thing was almost immobile. Once the brake drums were stripped out, and everything cleaned off and reassembled properly mobility (and braking) was restored.



A.

[Adrian]

Having had another look at your bike's picture you appear to have bought something which was restored in India, judging by all the brass bits and the later parts such as the twin leading shoe front wheel, the later switchgear, etc, so I'd hesitate to say how much of that bike is originally from 1977. The frame, maybe the crankcases...



As someone had fitted later parts this could complicate any other technical queries you might have until you know exactly what you're dealing with.



Forgive the stupid question, but did it come with all the documents to allow you to ride it where you live?



A.

[StogieRob]

Leon - i'll give that a shot. embedding from google photo clearly wasn't working for me...
shit - ok, it's not the clutch.  I was sure the 'hold in the clutch, kick it over a few times' was the correct technique to free the clutch.  i'm not mentally ready for brakes, but i guess i'll have to suck it up and get working on the front first.  I may need to pull the rear wheel anyway due to a leak in that tire.  ugh...
and i haven't a clue how much is original, export, or replaced.  I know the PO was replacing anything rusted with brass.  I have a new brass muffler to install as the one on the bike is rather rusty.  that came with the bike, along with boxes of parts and other crap.  at least i also got the service manual and last year's hitchcock's catalog.  
Adrian - it was titled and registered before i got it, and was likely titled and registered before the PO bought it.  someone, at some time, did the necessary paperwork.  I have it titled and registered in Illinois now.  as far as the government is concerned, it's legal!  btw - what's a twin leading shoe on the front wheel?  i do love asking what feel like idiotic questions...
Thanks!
StogieRob

[Leon Novello]

Hi Rob: If you need to remove the rear wheel, there is an easier way than leaning the bike over to slide the wheel out. An easy job if there is only a single seat.

al2 co3 3 molar mass

[Andy C]

Twin leading shoe.

This will have 2 levers operating the brake on the drum as opposed to 1 lever.

In theory a twin leading shoe will give you more braking power that a single leading shoe, I say in theory because if they are not setup properly they will be no better than a single leading shoe - this could be the reason why the bike does not roll very well.

Good luck.

[Chris [Stockport]]