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[StogieRob]

Stinkwheel - that was perfect!

so using this link to the switches and fitments page for what is as close to my bike as I can find....
http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... d_Fitments

#26 Auto-starter cutoff is the device that connects to the clutch and neutral (and possibly the kickstand) to prevent the e-start from being used if those three conditions are not satisfied
#27 Starter Relay is between the battery and the starter (wild guess on actual electrical location, but the terminals are big enough) and my guess is that it is also the solenoid

#7 Regulator Cum Rectifier E-Start Only - These are the two items under the seat that make the bike look 'new'. What are these item's role in the equation?

Thanks!!!
StogieRob

[ric]

I imagine the finned items under the seat are the separate (connected) regulator and rectifier units. These could be replaced with the later single combined unit and repositioned somewhere less intrusive but still well ventilated. I repositioned mine onto the rear of the tool box. This acts as a heat sink for the unit which also benefits from additional cooling from air turbulence created by the rear wheel.

[papasmurf]

Does any of the wiring look leke this:-

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... l_Fitments

[Adrian]

For the home team's ease of reference, StogieRob's bike is the AVL Classic (in military green), which is a USA-only model - think Electra-X engine and electrics in a Sixty-5's rolling chassis.>br>


For WWII re-enactments it's worth noting that NO British army bike would have had electric start, kick start only!



The under-seat components on the Electra-X would be the reg-rectifier, TCI black or green box and indicator/flasher unit. As ric says you could relocate this stuff, and you could also fit a dummy Lucas CVC (voltage control) box under the seat as the dynamo-fitted old bikes would have had. Speaking of seats, I assume you will be replacing the dual seat with a sprung saddle if you haven't already done so, something like our hosts' part number 200081A looks appropriate.



I do wonder if this bike ought to be kept street-legal, you could always buy a BSA M20 for re-enactments. I know there are some in the USA.

A.

[stinkwheel]

As above, the regulator/rectifier is nothing to do with the electric start as such. It converts the AC output from the regulator to 14v DC to charge the battery as the bike rides along.



Again, as above, you can move them but they do need a reasonable airflow as they dump excess power as heat (hence the cooling vanes). It helps if they are exposed to airflow and are bolted to something metal (to assist heat-sinking). Probably good if they don't have too much exposure to water too.



Depending on available space, you might be able to bolt them to the back of that fixed section of rear mudguard near the ignition coil or even to the back of the tea-caddy.



Yes, starter relay and solenoid are effectively an interchangeable term. There is a technical difference between how the switch moves inside a relay and a solenoid but in use, it makes no difference.

[StogieRob]

I just noticed that the formatting of my post had all of the spaces removed. Not sure why...

Anyway, in no particular order for the replies

PapaSmurf - my electrics and fitments look like this - http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... d_Fitments. I’ve been in touch with Richard at HMC (the wonderful hosts of this board) and even he’s not really sure what model I have. It’s like an early 00 AVL with front drum brake, but not completely. I’ve just accepted it and cross reference to other bikes when necessary. Even my VIN doesn’t make sense as it says it’s a “Classic 500 or a Sixty-S”. And yes, that’s an S not a 5.


Adrian - Thanks! I never occurred to me until this post that the majority of the audience were Brits. Foolishness on my part as it’s a brit bike. Hell, i’d rather bein the UK (anywhere in the UK) riding the bike than here in the US. We do our part to uphold the honor of the brits when we do our reenactments. I’ve got RAF (including someone who does 311/312 Squadron Polish/RAF) friends, Hampshire Regiment friends, Home Guard, WLA, QUAIMS, 41RM, Scots/Welsh Guards, RAMC, RASC, etc... I reenact 5th Bn Coldstream Guards.


So the rectifier/regulator need to stay in place for a while longer. Ah well. Right now, only the turn signals are off the bike, so it’s an easy refit to make it street legal again. I had a ‘42 BSA M20 for $6000 within 15 minutes of my house, but the budget just wasn’t there. There’s a 1999 RE with right side shift (the proper location!) within 3 hrs of my location right now. Gorgeous chrome and red paint scheme. The wife even suggested that I sell this one and buy one with the right hand shift since it’s much more correct for reproducing a ‘42 RE WD/CO. I’ve just finished repainting the tool boxes and license plate mount. Once I get the thing reassembled, I probably will post it for sale and see who bites. While it might break someone’s heart to paint chrome and red to british WWII green, i’ve discovered that rattle cans don’t make for a completely shitty paint job when going for the ‘beat up military look’.


And I already have a solo seat, so that looks right. Arguing with myself over a pillion seat or skipping it and just getting the panniers. No need for a pillion going into ‘battle’ and the ladies won’t ride anything but a sidecar as that would be VERY unladylike in a 1940’s dress. I’m not getting a sidecar as that spoils my fun bashing about on two wheels.

Thanks ALL!!! Today is bike reassembly day!

StogieRob

[StogieRob]

Wiped out all my formatting again! Damn...

[stinkwheel]

I don't know about the US but in the British Army, painting vehicles is usually a punishment fatigue (for when you've screwed up, but not badly enough to have to whitewash the coal heap). So "genuine" military paint is pretty much as rough as is humanly possible to achieve when done outdoors with a can of 20 year old, badly stirred NATO paint and a fossilised brush by someone who would otherwise be down in the mess with his mates if only he hadn't forgottent to flip the dust cover up over his rifle breach.

[Scalyback]

[center]
Toilet brush. That's what we got to paint army vehicles. It helped that 'matt' finish as well!

[Scalyback]

[center]
Stinkwheel, YES, or hadn't forgotten to switch the rifle change lever to single shot on the range instead of letting all five rounds off on automatic! That got you some problems with the sergeant!