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[ric]

The oil in the timing chest is higher than the oil in the tank so only when the timing chest oil reaches the overflow hole does it drain down into the tank.

The pinion on the end of the timing shaft is splash fed so for you to have a substantial oil leak thats forcing oil passed the first bearing along the shaft, passed the second bearing then the oil seal to finally exit to the outside world probably means you have surplus crankcase pressure that the breather is not coping with so the air is finding another exit and taking oil with it.
If the original pipe work is clean a non return valve might help in reducing pressure (and oil loss) as perhaps would a new oil seal behind the points plate. The other (expensive) alternative is to fit the later distributor unit off the '65 model which comes with a pair of roller bearings instead of bushes. You could replace the stock bearings with sealed ones. It would be extremely unlikely for any oil to find its way passed five oil seals no matter how high the crankcase pressure.

[Leon Novello]

There is a recommendation somewhere that to relieve crankcase pressure, the dipstick cap should always be left on the first notch, not screwed down tightly onto the second notch. There should be a breather hole in the cap, but most are only the size of a thin pin and might block up over time.

[scotty]

Another thought on oiling problems, possibility of oil pumps in wrong locations ie scavage pump in feed pump position this would pump more oil to bigend than return pump can cope with big plunger is return pump. All gears in timing chest run submerged in oil return hole is quite hi up, timing case never empties I always drain mine via quill bolt at oil change and refill via tappet cover drain holes takes a long time to fill via pumps.
On the cb shaft my bushes were shot from new 270klms spiral cut into cb shaft to give a little oil dont work ended up drilling cb housing and fitting a grease nipple. Was very hard to start cb cam end so loose was playing merry hell with points gap, but not a bad bike once you get rid of shonkey made parts and cheap bearings.

[p]

Well, if the level has dropped in tank with bike standing, it is either in crankcase or all over the floor. Why not drain the c/case when oil tank looks low, see how much there is, then add same amount to tank... should prove something to you.
Sometimes I find a bike on sidestand will wet sump more. If you're worried about starting engine with low indication on dipstick, but you know it's in there somewhere, dip with something longer just to check that there is some oil for the pump to prime and pump until scavenge pump does it's job.
Of course, you could check oil at end of run, before it can wet sump, then all you need to is check for a puddle underneath before your next excursion!

[p]

......is to check for puddle underneath....... I suppose I mean check for no puddle!

[TONUPBOY]

Thank you all for your thoughtful responses and insight. While I'm not new to motorcycles by any means, I'm finding the Bullet to be a strange and mystical beast-- truly unlike anything I've ever worked on before. I think I'm simply going to address things systematically. First order of business is to take care of that contact breaker gasket leak. I also suspect my duckbill isn't allowing enough gas to escape, so I plan on replacing it with a ball-type check valve. I've also got the oil quill bushing that needs replacement, as it was coming apart. It came out in pieces, and what's left appears to be bonded to the orifice. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove the residual bushing without scoring things?

[TONUPBOY]

Thank you all for your thoughtful responses and insight. While I'm not new to motorcycles by any means, I'm finding the Bullet to be a strange and mystical beast-- truly unlike anything I've ever worked on before. I think I'm simply going to address things systematically. First order of business is to take care of that contact breaker gasket leak. I also suspect my duckbill isn't allowing enough gas to escape, so I plan on replacing it with a ball-type check valve. I've also got the oil quill bushing that needs replacement, as it was coming apart. It came out in pieces, and what's left appears to be bonded to the orifice. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove the residual bushing without scoring things?

[Leon Novello]

< how to remove the residual bushing without scoring things?> A piece of wood, sharpened old clothed peg, piece of hard plastic, etc.

[Wheaters]

"There is a recommendation somewhere that to relieve crankcase pressure, the dipstick cap should always be left on the first notch, not screwed down tightly onto the second notch. There should be a breather hole in the cap, but most are only the size of a thin pin and might block up over time."

But my 2004, iron barrelled 350 Bullet Electra has a screw in filler cap with no breather (and no possibility of breathing through the distributor, for that matter, because there isn't one).

In view of conflicting advice on this I compromise by checking the oil isn't right at the bottom of the dipstick before starting the engine but confirm the actual level after a ride, rather than before. The bike doesn't seem to wet sump but the level is usually a bit higher after the engine has run for a few minutes.

[Jamesy]

I checked my oil level cold and was at the H mark.Went for a 10 mile ride left the bike for approx 5 minutes then checked the oil it was at the H mark.Evrything running well.Bullet 350. 2003.