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[oldnick]

My B5 2017 EuroIV Bullet has become more difficult to start from cold after a few days without use. It takes several attempts but ticks over and runs well once started. Battery voltage is 12.6v immediately after a good run but drops to 11.8v with ignition and lights on. I think the starter is turning the engine over more slowly than previously. So do I need a new battery and, if so, what's the best buy? Advice much appreciated.

[stinkwheel]

Is it holding that voltage? What's it like immediately BEFORE a good run. I wouldn't be horrified by a resting 12.6v but is that where it's resting or is it dropping from there?



Voltage doesn't tell you everything about the battery condition though but it can be a reasonable guide. Do also consider the battery needs a good connection with the starter so it's worth checking the battery terminals and the connections to the solenoid and frame earth.



If it's an unsealed battery, you should also check the electrolyte level.



Other tests on batteries include electrolyte specific gravity testing and dynamic load recovery tests. Most people don't have the equipment to do this but a battery factors may well do. You may need to go to a motor factors for one anyway because companies can't send out acid packs with batteries any more, you can only get sealed or AGM batteries through the post now.

[Rattlebattle]

A lot of us fit Motobatt batteries; I did so within a few months because I don’t care for wet batteries much these days. The Motobatt has much greater cranking power and turns the starter noticeably quicker than the original in good condition. It’s an AGM battery, so it’s maintenance-free. Another benefit is that it has two sets of terminals so you can fit additional connectors separately from the main ones. They are bright yellow though...FWIW I have our host’s LED voltmeter fitted to my C5. That clearly shows that the alternator barely balances the load at tickover with the engine running and the lights on but charges at anything above tickover. 11.8 v at tickover might be ok with the lights on. I’m not convinced the battery is the issue here. It’s colder than if late and perhaps there is a fault with the “choke”? Just saying.

[Jamesy]

I am assuming your bike also has the alternative kick start? How does it start using that.

[Jamesy]

I am also assuming you have efi. and no choke to speak off?

[ric]

A leaking cold start plunger might even be beneficial!

Are you able to use jumper cables from a larger (car) battery to the Enfield battery to see if that makes a difference?

[Leon Novello]

Just take the battery to an auto electrician, they can put a load test on it and tell you what its state is in a few minutes, the test is usually free, same with coils. Then you will have positively eliminated or found those as the cause.

[albert]

These are the very same symptoms I had on my continental a couple of months back,a new battery and problem solved in my case.

[Vijayinder]

Hey oldnick, I have a 2016 B5, I used to have the same issues with a wet battery, the classic and continental GT come with AGM batteries while we B5 riders get the old school wet battery and it went bad after I'd say 6-8 months. It got to the point where the electric start did not work at all but thankfully I had the kickstarter, after driving around like this for around 1-2 months I went and bought an AGM battery and all my problems disappeared.YTX14AHL-BS - YUAM62H4L I'm pretty positive that is the size of the battery and that is the model number for a yuasa battery. Good luck, ride on.

[oldnick]

Thanks for advice. New Motobatt AGM battery fitted and starting seems fine now (time will tell). The old battery seemed to charge OK (12.6v) after a ride. Switching on ignition (which switches lights on for a EuroIV) lowered voltage to 11.8v before engine started. After a few days without use, I guess these voltages would be lower. These bikes seem to need a really good battery for easy starting.