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By Aethelric
#78261
No problem Jamesy, but I'm going to struggle to get you onto using needle probes! (Available from all good Voodoo shops)

Cheers

A.
By Revband
#78262
Good of you Jamesy, well done, it takes a good man to own up and apologize.
By Aethelric
#78263
Now back to Allan's problem. I think the problem is most likely caused by a corroded connector. Not knowing a great deal about Bullets, I would attack the problem using needle probes as I said earlier. BUT there is a wealth of knowledge and experience on this site and someone will have ideas of which connectors are most prone to this, due to their location, exposure to the elements, or quality issues.
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By stinkwheel
#78264
Sticking my oar in here but these needle probes sound like a very bad idea on motorcycle wiring. I have had more intermittent faults that I'd care to think of over the years caused by moisture ingress and corrosion working its way along the inside of the insulation on a wire.



A well made loom will have each end of the wire insulation trapped in a properly applied crimp, effectively sealing it to moisture ingress. Poking holes in the insulation wont cause an immediate problem but I can guarantee in the UK climate and with the salt that gets thrown on our roads, it would an intermittent and very difficult to trace electrical fault after a few years riding.



I had a very similar fault on a more modern bike a few years back. It started intermittently cutting out for a few seconds in the wet. Then one day, it just died. Nothing. After 2 days looking, I traced the fault to a CDI wire that the dealer (who I bought it from new) had fitted a scotchlock connector to with the intention of using it as part of the immobaliser system. He then changed his mind and removed it, wrapping the damaged insulation in a piece of PVC tape. It took 3 years for tape to lose integrity causing a short to the frame when wet and 4 years for it to fail altogether.



All three Kawasaki 500 twins I've had dealings with have had a poorly fitted connector on the main 30A fuse holder, they used too thick a wire for the terminal so the insulation isn't crimped properly. This takes about 10-15 years to finally corrode to the point it causes a fault and being the main feed to the ignition switch, it leaves the bike dead in the water. On all three, I had to cut that wire back at least 6" into the loom before I got to a bit that wasn't green and furry then splice a new piece in.



In my experience, there are no wires on a motorcycle loom you can't get at both ends of with enough perseverance.



The wires are thin because the largest load the DC wiring on a bullet will be carrying is if you have the flashers, side lights and brake light on simultaneously. Or the headlamp and taillight on the AC side. In either case, it's less than than 6A. 0.5 sq.mm thinwall cable is rated to 11A.
By Aethelric
#78265
Fair enough Stinkwheel. I would never use anything I wasn't sure about either. I've never personally had an issue though and I have used the technique for many years. The hole made tends to self seal. I don't tape it up either. To be fair, I've only used the technique a handful of times on a motor cycles as I only work on my own bikes and I have not had a huge number of faults.

The non-intrusive way which I guess most folk use is to push a fine wire (a fine jewelers screwdriver works well) into the mated connector to make contact with the cable/pin joint. Connect the meter to the "probe" and you can measure the voltage either side of the connector with the current flowing.
By another Allan
#78408
Well, I found the problem, and it was easy to fix.


One of the terminals on the ammeter was corroded and the other was loose.


I cleaned both spade connectors and fitted new washers and nuts. As a result, full voltage appeared at the lights, and the battery measured up to 14 Volts at 3000 rpm.


Thanks to all for your suggestions.
User avatar
By Leon Novello
#78413
That was a long story. Good to hear that the problem was solved. When I bought my 2000 Bullet I disconnected every connector and smeared them with a light coat of dielectric grease. Never had any corrosion problems in 15 years.
By Aethelric
#78418
That jogged my memory Leon. I should do that on mine too.
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My sixty-5 is 14 years old but it looks like it's had an easy life from it's multiple previous owners. I've just ordered some grease from ebay.

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