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[stinkwheel]

Just been running into the same problem I had last time I fitted an Amal to an Enfield. The cables they supply have an adjuster about 6" below the handlebar end. I can never deal with this in terms of routing. It puts the adjuster slap bang in the casquette opening. This a) means you can't get all the other cables/wires through and b) It hangs up, gets stuck and is generally in the way in such a way as it jams the outer then tightens the cable as you move the steering. To that I'll add c) Having an adjuster there puts it in the most mobile and curved part of the cable run meaning the cable has a tendancy to rub on the edges of the ferrules leading to a stiff action.



Last time I landed up just making my own (without an adjuster, it seems entirely unecessary anyway) because it was not only numb, it was also about half an inch too long with the adjusters wound all the way out. As is this one.



It occurrs to me that having the same problem with two different cables on two different bikes about 7 years apart, either there is something inherantly wrong with these cables or the other common factor is me. I can't see how I could be fitting them so they are too long and it's not hard to cut a bit back and solder on a new nipple but maybe there is something other people are doing with regard to routing them that means that adjuster isn't in exactly the worst possible place?



I'm taking mine out of the carb, along under the frame top tube, exiting under the front left side of the tank just below the front mounting bolt, entering the casquete to the left side of the steering head then exiting the casquette through the grommeted hole next to the right hand side light.

[Mark M]

No it's not just you. I am heartily sick of cables where the outer is way too short meaning that you need to use all the adjustment. When l have queried it l was told "they are made to the original specification". Well obviously not because on the odd occasion l have found nos cables they always fit. These are for Redditch bikes by the way, and yes, l have the correct levers and fittings on carbs etc. REgards, Mark

[Adrian]

A common fault on clutch cables for 5 speed Indian gearboxes too. (



A.

[mauri]

i just buy standard indian throttle cables, take the nipple off, cut the outer conduit to lenght, re-use the old ferulle.
make a small soldering pot(is doesn't need to be a fancy one with an ajustable temperature), just a small container that holds enough sodder.




heat it up with a gas burner, melt the orignal nipple off, get a nipple from venhill, sodder it back on, and that's it.



it takes as much work writing is down as actually doing the work, and the cable is as you want it.



if you make it at the correct lenght, the adjuster on the carb is more than enough.

+ an extra adjuster in just an other way to get moister and dirt in the cable even if its with dust boots

[mauri]

i just buy standard indian throttle cables, take the nipple off, cut the outer conduit to lenght, re-use the old ferulle.
make a small soldering pot(is doesn't need to be a fancy one with an ajustable temperature), just a small container that holds enough sodder.




heat it up with a gas burner, melt the orignal nipple off, get a nipple from venhill, sodder it back on, and that's it.



it takes as much work writing is down as actually doing the work, and the cable is as you want it.



if you make it at the correct lenght, the adjuster on the carb is more than enough.

+ an extra adjuster in just an other way to get moister and dirt in the cable even if its with dust boots

[Mark M]

I have had problems with soldering some modern cables when re-making them, I suspect they may be stainless steel wire, has anyone come across this and is there a different technique? And while we're on the subject of cables, why do the ones sold for Redditch models have Metric rather than Imperial adjusters on them? I don't want to mix spanners when doing a job!

REgards, Mark

[mauri]

you'll need a different flux and silver braze for stainless.

its welding that's needed not sodder.

[stinkwheel]

Glad it's not just me.



In terms of re-soldering cables. I suspect a lot of modern ones with nylon inners will have silicone lube on them which is very heat and chemical stable and would act as a barrier to adhesion. Maybe worth a try with a really aggressive acid flux? I was always recommended to use bakers fluid when re-soldering previously used cables as this will shift a lot of corrosion and lubricant residues. You DO need to effectively clean and neutralise afterwards or it'll eat away at the cable from the inside. Wipe, rinse in water then oil/lube.

[John L]

Stinkwheel - My experience seems to be the exact opposite of yours. On my 1960 350 Bullet with Amal Concentric, I've made all my own cables, including throttle and air (choke) cables purposely retaining midway adjusters about 6" from the handlebar end. The reason for this is carb. mixing chamber top is quite close to the frame top tube/underside of the fuel tank, and has top-hat ferrules rather than adjusters to help prevent the cables leaving the carb. at too acute an angle. I have the throttle cable routed outside of the nacelle and behind the tank front on the right side. This places the adjuster in a handy, unobtrusive position. The air cable is routed through the nacelle, which places the adjuster wholly inside the nacelle out of harm's way. (Air/fr. brake cables through nacelle r/h. and clutch/decomp. cables through nacelle l/h.) The clutch cable on this bike has an adjuster at the g/box end and is a real pita to access - the next cable I make will also have a midway adjuster, as with Indian Bullets.