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By Creaky45
#8408
Now my Bullet is rebuilt with its 535 alloy barrel and forged piston it is pulling like a train with heaps of power. But the slipping clutch problem I had before to a small extent is now a real problem. Ages ago I replaced the whole 5 plate arrangement with a 4 plate due to wear in the clutch centre and back plate but for some reason I could not fit my 5 plates to the 4 plate basket even though they looked the same so I put up with the 4 plater and a bit of slippage. But when I took the bike out for its first run the other day (with the 4 plate clutch) not only did it slip a bit but it would not dis-engage enough to select neutral and it crunched badly into first. I know about cable adjustment and how you adjust the screw and locknut on the gearbox first and then the cable but this has no effect. I have a lot more details if anyone asks questions. One thing I want to know is how far the clutch rods with the ball bearing in the middle should travel with full clutch movement. Mine moves about 4mm. I can not see any way this could change provided all slack is taken up. I have pulled apart the operating bizzo with the 3 big ball bearings and all is well there. You might tell me what oil you use in the gearbox and clutch. I use 80/90 gearbox oil in the gearbox and ATF in the clutch. One thing I did with the engine out was replace the gearbox oil seal behind the gearbox sprocket which made the sprocket very hard to turn as if it was too tight in the oil seal. This may be a clue.
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By Leon Novello
#76377
I can`t help you with the clutch, but a tight oil seal can dry out and if no lubrication reaches the sealing lip, it can start to squeal like a dry bearing. I know of bearings that have been replaced at great expense when it was only a dry seal. No, I am not telling how I know this.
By Valsp
#76381
The only way to get a clean running non slipping clutch is to have the plates relined by a specialist with heavy duty friction material designed to run in oil
By Tomshayes
#76385
I fitted the Hitchcocks upgraded clutch kit to mine... Not completely set up yet it but was fine on the initial 25 Mike run..
By Creaky45
#76390
Thanks for your replies but my problem is as follows. Before I rebuilt the motor the 4 plate clutch released perfectly although it would slip under heavy load. Now, with more power it slipped even more but now it won't release enough to find neutral with the motor running. The only thing I have done re clutch or gearbox is to replace the oil seal behind the gearbox sprocket and when I did this I noticed how hard it was then to turn the sprocket, whereas before, with the old seal it spun freely. Here it gets tricky. You know how, when your bike is in neutral on the stand with the wheel off the ground and engine running the back wheel will turn, all but weakly and you can stop it with your hand. What makes it turn if it is in neutral. Well, mine not only turns weakly (every 7 days..joke) but enough to break your wrist if not careful. And not only that I have got all the clutch plates out so it has nothing to do with the plates. What have I done wrong?
By Creaky45
#76392
Alan, Gotta figure out how to work it first. I'll ask my grandson. He's 7. Not sure what to show you but I will check it out.
By Creaky45
#76405
Image

I am just trying to post a picture and this is a test. If it has come out it is a picture of a Meteor I may buy and has nothing to do with my clutch problem.

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