Forum

[Martin]

Have juggled in vain for some time to install rear wheel
back into swinging arm of a '%0 Bullet. First year only
has a quaint R/H adjuster arrangement with a knurrled spacer
that only threads on so far. Have studied every part book
and first year has different hub width?, and shorter axle
of approx 8 1/2", whilst all later years list a 9 7/8" axles
yet swinging arm seems the same all through. Rear wheel or
swinging could be from another machine, and just would be
grateful someone could measure the length of the later
axle's bearings machined spacer (32978) so I can compare
hub widths. The axle and 'spacer' are one piece, of course

[Martin]

Sorry, careless typing. We're talking of a '1949/1950
Redditch Bullet frame and rear wheel aggravation, and
seeking the length of the one piece axle/spacer segment of the
1951/ 1956 models that offer more thread for the axle nuts

[Mark M]

Martin, it's not obvious but the spindle should be hollow and internally (not externally) threaded on the off side (right hand end) to allow a bolt to secure it. The bolt is item 14 in the illustrated parts list on this site. I have recently had to build a rear wheel from parts for my 1955 350 (the infamous Ebay Bullet) and have accumulated quite a few odds and ends. I will have a look and see if there's a spacer among the bits. Be aware this idea was briefly re-used on the early 250 (Crusader) Clipper models which fitted a single sided rear wheel and this spacer may (or not!) be different. The idea of the removable bolt and spacer was as a crude form of QD rear wheel, believe it or not in case of puncture riders of the day were expected to be able to remove the rear inner tube with the wheel still in place and then drop it out through the gap left by removing the spacer. Aye, they were real men back then!

REgards, Mark

[Martin]

Mark, thanxs for your feedback as always. Early rear axle we are discussing
has 1 1/2" LH stub, 4 5/8" centre bearing spacer, and 2" RH stub, thus 8 1/8"
long with approx 3/4" axle threaded each end . Later axle are allegedly 9 7/8
long, and LOVE to know the sundry stub spacer dimensions of these as a better
arrangement

In interim, discovered the RH end knurled spacer #16 dismantles into two part
Was able to drill a 1/4' down a 5/8' hole which allows the slabbed knurled
portion to screw further down the axle, thus wheel fits easy with compromise
5/8" common washers. As you know the part's books illustrations are pathetic.
so have to guess everything to eliminate binding. Have the 3" X 3/8 RH bolt etc
Knurled spacer fits or sldes into RH swinging arm RH slot.

Now have to ask you which way the adjustment end washers face as confused
With small protrusions facing inwards, or outwards? Thank you, Mark

[Mark M]

I didn't have a chance to look today, will do it tomorrow when I'm working on the Ebay Bullet!

REgards, Mark

[Mark M]

Martin, I have 2 of the knurled spacers here. There are some slight differences in dimensions: overall depth (thickness) 3/4" and 11/16" and the bores are 3/8" and 7/16" respectively. Other dims are; diameter 1&1/8" Recess in hub centre side, 1/8" deep. The shoulder that engages in the swingarm is 11/16" across and 5/16" in depth. My suspicion is that one of these is for the later 250 lightweights as described and the other is for the earlier models. I have some more hub parts I could examine if you have further queries. The Parts Books for these models aren't bad exactly (look at a Norton of this period, no illustrations at all!) but they do tend to rely on a generic illustration which covers several models and sometimes many years, not accounting for changes in production or specification. And then there's the occasional mistake!

REgards, Mark

[Martin]

Mark, the knurled RH end spacer(s) were well descr1bed, and clearly one of them
is the revived 250 Crusader with the lesser axle diameter. As I mentioned, I did
modify said spacer to squeeze the wheel into S/Arm slats, but still would have
liked more axle thread and length on the LH side. At least the 8 1/8 axle
fits right after having it arse about where a friend had to run up a extended stud
to hold the brake plate. If you stumble on the later axle amongtst your goodies,
9 7/8", Mark, that's the one we need the diameters off should the early 8 1/8"
axle prove to be too precarious. Interesting the lay public were expected to struggle
with tube installion so and not ISDT veterans

[Martin]

Sorry, should read for the later 9 7/8" axle we need the threaded stub -middle raised spacer-threaded stub LENGTHS
at your leisure, Mark

[Mark M]

Martin, you've lost me there. Is there a Parts Book illustration on this site you can point me to? If I have a rough idea what I'm looking for that will help. Bear in mind none of the wheels I have here are complete so I don't know what belongs to what!

REgards, Mark

[Martin]

Thanxs for your patience, Mark, should have used the part's numbers more freely'
and to be able to paragraph my queries like some on here are able to do. OK the
EARLY axle I have from -49/'51 is 7 5/8" long part # 32978 , illustration # 18
The Orange part's book calls it a (hub) bearing spacer; confusing, but that's wha
it does. The LATER axle is apparently 8 7/8" long , part # 36648 illustration # 14.
is simply solid, and all we need is the LENGTHS of the LH and RH threaded stubs and
the centre raised portion. Don't worry about the remaining loose spacers, as have
utilized common 5/8 washers. The later axle should be easy to in your goodies, Mark
as solid with 5/8 thread. Do it at leisure,as my wheel is more or less in now