Forum

[papasmurf]

Exploded view of front forks here:- http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... Front_Fork

Unless someone here knows other wise, it should a much simpler job on the Electra X than other Enfields.
Just take the weight off of the front wheel undo the large retaining caps at the top of the forks, you may need a big allen key to undo the large retaining screws that are underneath the retaining caps and the springs should just pull out.
(Please anyone feel free to tell me I am wrong.)

[PeteF]

You'll make a lot more difference to the stiffness of the front end by changing to a thinner fork oil. The springs don't make much difference in my experience.

[ric]

That would depend on the difference between the original springs and their replacement.

[stinkwheel]

Umm, looking at that diagram, the electra X ones look exactly like the forks on a standard bullet (same 18mm top cap which you won't fit a spring through). In which case you're looking at splitting the forks by undoing the bottom nut and pulling the fork legs down off the stanchions. You may need new seals. There are detailed instructions on the technical section.



If you are going to do the seals DO buy, borrow or make your own protective collar (Part: ST25114) to prevent damage to the ends of the fork legs.



I find wrapping the end of the stanchion in a single layer of well oiled, thick-ish plastic (a bit cut from the bag the seals come in is ideal) allows it to be pushed onto the seals without damage, it can then be wiggled back out from under the seal. If it's not well oiled or you do more than one wrap, it'll get stuck.



http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pi ... 988_on.pdf

[papasmurf]

"Umm, looking at that diagram, the electra X ones look exactly like the forks on a standard bullet "

The thing is they aren't exactly the same on close inspection. For a start changing the fork oil merely involved draining the old oil out of the bottom, and filling the forks from the top after removing the blanking plugs at the top.
I have just checked the top of the forks on my Electra X bears no resemblance to the workshop manual.

[ric]

Thinking back... I'm pretty sure my ElectraX had threaded fork tubes. This being the case you'd undo the oil filler plug from the nacelle then undo the lower yoke clamp bolts and then screw them down and out in a clockwise rotation until they drop out of the nacelle. One leg at a time would obviously make it easier by not disturbing too much around the headstock.

Once the fork leg assembly is off the bike a hex key is needed to remove the top cap to access the spring. No need to dismantle further unless you want to ensure every last drop of the old fluid is out. Then it's a simple case of draining and flushing out the old oil before dropping in the springs - tight coils uppermost if they're progressive - and refilling with oil.

[ric]

papasmurf - just followed that link and it does (sort of) show threaded tubes. I located the fork oil filler plugs (and seals) which weren't shown within the headlamp section!


.

[stinkwheel]

If they're like mine, those hexes are 13mm across the flats. The same as the head on an M8 bolt. So you can undo them by either putting a 90 degree bend in a longish M8 bolt or putting 2 nuts locked together on one and winding it down. If you do the latter, put a washer below the nuts so you can't drop the whole lot down into the fork, I refuse to discuss the incident where I found that out!

[Chris Tindal]

If you have the hexagonal footrest bar like the older bullets, this fits perfectly in the forks and can be turned with a spanner to get the forks out. If so, remember to fit a nut on the end to stop the bar falling into the forks should you let go of it.

[papasmurf]

ericpode is the bike lower when you sit on it with the new springs. (I could do with my Electra X being a bit lower and am now out of options.)