This Forum is now CLOSED use the link to get more details viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13924#p102587
#8133

Forgive me reiterating this issue from a year or two ago as several of you kindly responded but
can't find original query. Anyway, have since fabricated a tubular tool to wind the kick spring
up on this '50 Albion gearbox. However, spring bunched up, and will not let the new cap cusp
to catch on the kick starter ledge. Have two or three new springs, all the same height,Correct
dimensions when not wounded back. Even recessed the aluminun a tad where the the spring is
on the gearbox's inner cover. but no avail. Friends are weary helping me after wasting hours of
struggle. I may add am only winding the spring back one turn now, less than the recommended
Thanxs , Laqs for any fresh insight
#74497
Hello, yes have spent many hours with this. Best I can offer is to remove the end float on the kickstart shaft so that the shaft fully locates into the D shape in the cup. Most of the trouble I had was keeping the shaft in the D hole when assembling the cover and kickstart. Also a washer on the shaft between the kickstart and the cup so it can’t “slip out” when working. Richard
#74512

Richard, grateful your response. Had tried fitting wound spring like you had with outer cover removed. but
just a slight tremble, and D cup will spring off on reassembling cover. Fabricated tool makes winding the
spring dead easy. but obscures viewing the D cup's actual position. Kick shaft ledge has a tendency to slip
backwards a few degrees from the ledge being perfectly horizontal, so it is guesswork to know if the cup's
flat edge is more or less right. Will however check the kick shaft's end float. Have had a suitable washer
on hand to slip on shaft before kick pedal. Gordon
#74519
Hi, I always assemble the d shape first so it goes well onto the shaft and with kick start holding it on I then wind the spring loop end around until the bolt can be inserted in the case. That way the spring bunching up is avoided. Then its remove kickstart and fit the case over and secure. Vince
#74522
My advice from the previous post is this: The D shaped opening in the cup must be in as-new condition, no burring or wear. If it is not you will struggle to fit it and each time it pings off more damage will occur leading to a vicious circle. Buy a new one from our Hosts. If you have already, and are still having problems, my apologies!

REgards, Mark
#74526

Thanxs, Vince, yoor method offers a ray of hope at last. Will start with a fresh spring as warped two already
with the previous struggles. Mark, bought a new D cup on your advice long ago when realized how futile it was
working with a worn one. Also had been working with outer cover fitted and then winding up spring, so will try
Vince's method.in a few days, and report further. Sorry previous query and advice given then was lost. Gordon
#74527
No problem Gordon. I just had a thought; there should be a hardened thrust washer behind the kickstart spindle (part no. H21A?) which might take up the end float you are experiencing? This washer is often lost during previous rebuilds/ham fisted ownership by juniors!

REgards, Mark
#74529

Mark, Actually 'end float' was the kick shaft viewed at the end. Cup ledge is level at 12.00 o'clock, but slips back
to 11.50 with the juggling. This should be no problem with Vince's method, as kick pedal can keep shaft level with
one's knee. Good opportunity to ask you which bolt position is best for the spring's retention. WD350 manual with same
g/box seems to show bottom R/hand one? Meanwhile, have empathy with you all re UK's snow lock down followed closely
on BBC videos, no 'bikes glimpsed on the stalled motorways. Thank you

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles