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[scotty]

Chuck your micarb and fit a genuine mikuni carb better accel and idle swaped my 28mm micarb for a 32mm mikuni big difference can still use teacaddy air cleaner hose will strech to fit but pod or pankake filter is better.easy to tune ,even diff in casting isnbetter.

[Felix]

Back before Viton-tipped needles, I recall tapping the needle lightly into its seat using a small brass tube that surrounds the spring pin as a drift. A few taps with a tool handle would sometimes cure the leak.

[binary]

Had an interesting experience. I went to look on a well known site that rhymes with 'tea-pay' to have a look at a, as advertised, "OEM - genuine VM24 Mikuni Japan Carburettor for Royal Enfield 350" that comes from India. What I saw was an ordinary Indian Mikarb carb with the numbers and letters VM-24-SH. and the words cast into the carb body where the slide runs up and down "Royal Enfield Cycle Company". So we have an ordinary Indian Mikarb masquerading as a genuine Mikuni made in Japan carburettor. It does not get much better than this.
Needless to say that I will forgo the pleasure of owning a genuine Indian Mikarb made in Japan Mikuni VM 24 carburettor. Well the add did not really say made in Japan but the mention of the word Japan is just a trick that leaves the unwary with the thought that it is an original Japanese made Mikuni carburettor. Oh well live and learn.

[Alan R]

Hi Guys---------- I might be able to add something here........A week or so ago my MoT ran out so I parked the bike alongside the garage, turned the fuel off and waited for the new rear sprocket/drum to arrive before fitting and re-testing (3 teeth have gone walkabout !!)...........The drum arrived, and so did the snow !!..( Can't use the garage due to other projects taking place ).....The point is my Mikcarb was brand new this Spring and had just started to show a very slight weep from the floatbowl overflow plastic tube.......When this weather abates a bit I'll go and turn the fuel tap on and see what happens ( I always park it on the centre stand so there'll be no issues about leaning over etc...)

[binary]

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_fro ... d&_sacat=0

[stinkwheel]

I THINK I've found the problem.



Looking very closely at the inside of the float bowl, there is some very slight scuffing on the alloy. More a pair of little polished spots on the front edge of the float bowl. They correspond with the soldered rim on the float. I assume they have been catching slightly.



Usually when I put the float bowl on, I turn it upside down withthe bowl in place, insert all 4 screws then tighten them down crosswise to finger-tight then fully tight, effectively allowing it to centre itself on the screws.



When I look, there is a good portion of "tolerance" on the position of the float bowl. With the screws in finger tight, the float bowl can be moved back to front by a good 2-3mm in relation to the carb body. By tightening the screws finger tight then pushing the float bowl towards the front of the carb (so it butts against the lip) before tightening it down, the float bowl is moved away from that lip on the float.



So far, so good.

[binary]

Hi stinkwheel I hope that you are right. I have my carb off at the moment and so I will try your suggestions. It probably would not take much of a touch to hang the float up as it is a very light component. Strange how it only does it after being standing and not used for a week or more, but then again it is a RE.

[p]

Not strange at all, probably only sticks when fuel in bowl evaporates so float drops lower than usual. Easily proven if fuel turned off until engine stops, then turn fuel on - if it floods the above confirmed.....

[Alan R]

That's reminded me---- I'll go and have a look tomorrow morning and report back........Meanwhile why has the page width suddenly gone beserk, again ???

[binary]

I have found where my carb float is sticking. In the picture the half round area where the black dots are is where the carb floats were catching. I just spread the floats a bit and now all ok.