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By Lord-Toady
#72568
Hi I had the bike on the centre stand and filled it from the filler hole with a funnel until it started to pour back out of the drain hole at the bottom.


Thanks Graham
By Alan R
#72579
Hi --- I use ATF both in the primary chaincase and in the forks for a much improved ride....I have also tried the progressive fork springs but for my money I couldn't see any real improvement .... I seem to recall that Enfield specified 20/50 engine oil in the forks at one time ?............ooo-er missus !!
By Tv
#72584
G'day, you can use a closed cell foam to fabricate your own gasket. We used sheet of 5mm polyethylene closed cell foam sheet (it's grey and you can get it from the foam shop) and traced around the primary case cover. Cut it a bit bigger, fit to the the bike and nip up the retaining bolt, then remove and trim so it looks neat. We did a chronic leaking Meteor case and it hasn't leaked since. Good luck.
By Lord-Toady
#72685
Hi TV I like the sound of using the foam sheet as it looks like a simple inexpensive fix. Does the 5mm foam replace the existing rubber seal?

I need to sort this as its a pain in bum leaving puddles of ATF wherever I go, and the new concrete floor of my shed is now one big oil slick after having the enfield for 3 weeks.
By binary
#72693
I think that you will ultimately have to take the inner and outer covers off put them together with out the seal and make sure that they mate together perfectly. Then you can use the proper rubber seal. If you use something else as a seal it may fall out every time that you have to take the cover off. With the covers off you would be able to change the behind the clutch seal as well. There is a reason that the big rubber seal is not sealing it just has to be found. Some second hand Royal Enfields need a lot of work when you buy them. Some RE's that are imported from India via unscrupulous dealers and sellers can be a whole lot of mismatched parts from any model that they can make fit. They build them up and with some polish they look good but inside they can be a lot of bodged mismatched parts that run just long enough to sell the bike on. This is a multi million dollar business carried on right across the world catching honest people all the time.
By Revband
#72695
You don't need a big strip to check the fit, remove the outer cover and the o ring, put the cover back without the O ring, and run a feeler gauge round the joint. No big gaps and that isn't your problem.
By Tim NZ
#72697
When you next have the outer cover off:


Remove the O ring, fit up the outer case to the inner, gently and progressively tap around the cover with rubber hammer to ensure it is seated, finger tighten central nut. Now see if you can slip a 0.001" feeler gauge in between the inner and outer, at as many points possible all the way around; it should not fit...




Not all O rings are the same, some are too hard (old) not all are the correct length.


Nor are the O rings always correctly or fully seated into the groove. I find that with a replaced O ring it is advise to gently Tap around the outer case with a rubber hammer to progressively seat the O ring so that it mates fully as the central nut is SLOWLY tightened.


If all else fails: a smear of RTV works every time!

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