- Tue Nov 28, 2017 10:54 am
#72531
The washers will already have been removed if the head is off.
Removing the head studs should do the trick as binary mentions.
I take the studs out routinely now if I'm removing the head, makes the job very simple. To do this, I've fitted a set of Hitchcocks cylinder head studs with a square end that you can get the wrong end of a 1/4" drive socket on then undo with a big allen key with the cylinder head in place. The head comes off with a light tap from a rubber mallet. If I want the barrel off too, I undo the last nut at the bottom and it has enough slack to twist it side to side then lift off by hand.
I do also have an M8 thread repair kit in my workshop in case of damage to the crankcase threads but haven't needed it yet. When I first fitted the new studs, I found the threads in the crankcase to be a ludicrously poor fit, they weren't cut deeply enough to allow the new studs to screw in easily. I suspect this is down to worn tooling. I can highly recommend running a greased tap down the holes while the studs are out.
Replacing the studs seems an expense but it's saved me a lot of blue language over the years.