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By Felix
#71667
About any good 10W-40 should be suitable. 20W-50 is for higher temps such as my area.
After finding the rearmost drain plug under the engine (not the gearbox) drain the tank.
Carefully replace the plug and washer when empty and tighten firmly but don't over-tighten.
Remove the nut and various washers and cover to the filter, setting them down in order so you can replace them in order.
Remove and replace the filter.
Replace washers, cover and nut and tighten firmly but not too much.
Add oil to mid level on dipstick.
Start engine and let idle a while.
Recheck oil level, add if needed.
Clean up the mess and discard old oil thoughtfully.

This a basic oil change, but some folks check the quill seal, feed lines etc.
I'm sure others will chime in, since this involves the most controversial subject in motordom.;)
By bumpkin
#71669
Felix thank you for the reply, in the owners book it says something about remove oil from timing chest ? Also says use oil can fill about 200ml into timing cover ?
By Felix
#71671
Yes, it's good to drain the most oil possible, but I only do that when checking the oil pump gears. There is also a smidgen of oil in the crankcase and oil pump that can also be drained, but I'm not convinced it's worth the bother.
As always, it's just my opinion.

By ric
#71678
The timing chest needs to be removed or its seal broken in order to remove the 200cc or so of old oil from it; any fresh oil cannot return to the oil tank until the timing chest has been filled with fresh oil. The first time the cover is disturbed the gasket may get damaged but a replacement covered with fresh oil prior to assembly should last many oil changes without getting stuck to either of the sealing faces


Rather than running the engine to refill the timing chest with oil draining down from the rockers I preferred to add sufficient oil via the tappet cover first and put oil in the oil tank second,then run the engine before rechecking the oil level had settled halfway between the hi and low level marks on the dipstick.

I used an old tappet cover with some of its finning removed and a hole drilled in it fitted with the plastic pipe and top from an old oil bottle. The timing chest could then be pre-filled by simply squeezing fresh oil out the bottle into the tappet area.
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By PeteF
#71683
I don't bother with ALL the oil in the timing chest. Most of it can be drained by removing the quill bolt (big one in the centre of the case)
By ric
#71686
WOW, an ElectraX with a quill bolt.
That's taking retro a bit too far IMHO, but would love to see any photo's of the conversion.
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By Jojje
#71687
I always drain from hot engine, much faster - goes the other way around: I try to keep the oil canister in warm when refilling in cold weather. (No heating in my garage)
Nowadays I won't bother opening the other two plugs because nothing noteworthy has ever drained from there during twelve seasons of Electra X ownership. I never bother with timing chest either.
To avoid overfilling I measure the amount how much comes out, usually 1.6-1.7 litre, and refill this plus 1-1.5 dl 20W50 API class SF, SG or SH. Once tried 10W40 but that made the engine too noisy, even in winter. This is a "lean-burn-engine" and runs quite hot.
I change the filter at every other oil change. Sometimes o-rings. 60,000 km's and counting...
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By PeteF
#71688
Ooops, note to self; read the post properly😀
By bumpkin
#71689
Jojje do you have a youtube vid of how you change the oil ? or does anyone know of one for this engine please.

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