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[Revband]

Creaky, The tool used will do no damage unless you are really careless?, It stops the piston before it reaches TDC, you then turn the engine backwards until the tool stops it again the two marks at close together half way between is TDC. Simples no.

[Creaky45]

Thanks Revband, That's what I wanted to know. The 2 marks are very close together ( say 1/4 inch ) so you mark the spot between them. Now that sounds accurate. I was thinking between them meant halfway at BDC. Now can you describe what this tool looks like. (as if you were explaining it to a 3 year old) And Stinky, yes I have that tool but I find to make sure I have the cam fully advanced I take the whole backing plate off, remove the bolt, fit the tool, turn the cam, tighten the bolt, replace the plate, adjust the timing to 8.5mm, and leaving the plate locked up then remove the bolt and the tool. Is that what you do?

[Revband]

Creaky, I made my own from an old spark plug, just welded an extension piece to the inner end of the approx length to contact the piston at about the right distance, it doesn't have to be a precision tool as you can adjust the length depending how far you screw it in.

[stinkwheel]

I take the bolt out, screw it in (not tight) with the locking tool on, rotate the cam to fully advanced with my fingers then nip the bolt up. I take a very lax view of timing up a bullet these days though. It is a long way from a precision piece of engineering. If it starts easily and doesn't pink, it's all gravy. I have laboriously timed it up before using a strobe and degree wheel, this made no discernable difference to the performance.

What did make a difference was tapping the iron dizzy bushes out a touch to reduce the end-play on the points cam to single digits of millimetres which was previously so bad it wasn't always advancing fully.

[Creaky45]

Stinky, I guess you have to remove and dismantle the distributor to do that which would necessitate a puller to get the cog off inside the timing cover. Is that correct? How does this problem cause the bob weights to not fully advance. Is it hard to get that cog off? Is it on a taper? I might have to pull it apart to see what you mean. Anyway I think mine advances ok as the strobe light proved it.

[stinkwheel]

You wouldn't need to do that unless you had a problem. There was so much play on mine that the weights could foul the casting. Literally 10-15mm of play back and forth on the shaft. I would hope they aren't all like that.

And yes, it was a PITA to do, you have to go into the timing chest and pull the topmost gear off the shaft with a 3-leg puller.

[Beezabryan]

You say "I might have to pull it apart to see what you mean. Anyway I think mine advances ok as the strobe light proved it."
Yours advances OK yet you might have to pull it apart
Why?

[Creaky45]

Beeza, No I'm not pulling it apart as it is working ok and I'd never get that pinion off the dizzy anyway. I just wondered how Stinky did it and what his was doing to make it not advance. Now I know. Anyone who knows me knows that my motto is "If it ain't broke fix it till it is"