This Forum is now CLOSED use the link to get more details viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13924#p102587
User avatar
By Leon Novello
#68495
Another way is to move the actuating arm clockwise one notch on the spindle; this will improve the mechanical advantage of the lever; it will move the adjusting nut along the rod, but there is plenty of thread.
By ceb
#68506
Just to clarify the brake actuating arm is not loose,I'm referring to the bolts inside the backplate which are just nipped up not the nuts on the outside,you still need to clean off the paint.I've done 25000mls without any problems.
By MickB
#68510
Hi Retro, can you tell me the length of the new brake arm please? MrH hasn't supplied it in the catalogue. Many thanks.
By Retro
#68550
Hi MickB, sorry I've not got back sooner. It's Saturday over here and I'm at work, I'll run a rule along it on Sunday and let you know on Monday! 'Didn't mean to upset those who reckon that allowing the cam to slide is the best thing for their back brake since sliced bread! If owners are happy doing it and like the results - then good luck. All I know is that there has been loads of online discussion on sites about the rear brake and it relates to both Redditch and Indian built bikes. Anyway, that's my 'ten pennorth' for what it's worth!
Cheers, R
By Felix
#68561
My IB's rear brake was weak and would sometimes bind after stopping.
After slightly loosening the bushing screws to allow it to center only under hard application, it now stops and releases reliably. I then arced new shoes and it really helped.
I just ordered the UCE brake arm Retro recommends.
These bikes are a fettler's dream.


By Retro
#68575
Hi MickB. As promised the brake arm measurements: The original arm on mine was 11.5cm overall and 9.5cm centre to centre of splined mounting at top and pivoting bottom brake rod mounting at bottom. The new one, [a bit difficult as it's on bike] is approx 14cm overall, 12.5 cm c to c's and gives over an inch, [in old money] increase in leverage. One more thing: The new one's bottom brake rod mounting is offset and fouled the long 'torpedo' silencer on mine so I turned it 180 degrees. It puts the rod on the wheel side, clears the silencer and solved the problem!
Hope this helps - it's well worth doing. Let me know how you get on. Cheers, R
By MickB
#68579
Hi Retro, many thanks for the information; I will be ordering a new lever today. Can you tell me what is the correct tightening sequence of the bolts please? There is no reference to it in the service manual or in Pete Snidal's manual. Hopefully, by putting on a new lever and moving it clockwise a notch or two on the spindle I can improve the rather mediocre rear brake. I'll let you know of any improvement!
By Retro
#68596
Hi MickB. Glad to hear that you've decided to give Mr H's longer brake arm a go. Nobody should expect disc brake performance out of what is a 70 or 80 year old rear drum brake design but correctly set up and with the longer arm fitted it's hugely improved! As far as fitting the new arm goes, I fitted mine first before doing anything else and on the splines at an approx seven o'clock position. Anyway back to the three nuts: 1/ Remove spit pin and slacken the spindle castle nut, then the large sprocket assmbly nut behind it and finally the cover plate anchor nut. 2/ If snail cam adjusters fitted, ensure that they have not moved from their correct stops. 3/ Now lock the rear brake/wheel hard on, either by tightening the brake rod nut up hard - or by getting somebody to hold the brake lever hard down for you - and tighten up the three in reverse order, i.e cover plate nut first. Then finally release the brake.
Having reset everything the brake shoes will be rubbing and making the wheel tight to turn. Tighten the adjuster nut until you still feel just a touch of drag, then all it should need is no more than a couple more flats tighter for it to turn freely. The arm on mine ended up at approx mid between 6 & 7 o'clock. Correctly set up I was quite surprised just how little arm movement there was between brake normally off and hard on. Finally, do double check that everything is done up tight, including split pin replacement! Let me know how you get on, what year/model is yours?....................R

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles