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[bernieke]

Bloody google link not linking to an image...

[bernieke]

Looks like this battery should work: https://www.shop.modernmotorcyclecompan ... po4-120cca

[bernieke]

Ok,



So I just made another wooden block with the dimensions of the battery I linked.



And I managed to get both blocks in there! (One on each side, vertically.)



It was a really tight fit, but it looked like that was mostly because of all the current wiring and connector blocks, which should be a lot less voluminous once I'm done with it.



I don't really know yet how I'm going to attach the m-unit and battery to the casquette once I have them. I've ordered a 1mm metal plate and some metal epoxy and I'll ask my father if he dare weld in there. (I'd probably weld a hole right through the casquette if I tried it myself.) But I'm sure between the two of us we'll figure something out...

[Off to the shed again]

Just a word of caution, I believe the casquette is cast aluminium, so I don't think you could weld iron/steel plate to it with any success. But then, I am by no means knowlegeable on the subject! Best Regards, Chris.

[Adrian]

This could be a job for one of our wonderful modern engineering adhesives. A.

[Alan R]

Hi Guys,

Try this stuff for low-temp Alu Welding}--- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiThO-UQIWE

[bernieke]

I guess it'll be the metal epoxy then (Loctite 3450)

[bernieke]

It fits!

I epoxied two brackets at the back of the casquette, and will keep the battery and m-unit in place using a couple of zip ties around the forks. (I added some eva foam to cushion them from vibrations and pressure from the zip ties. Both are also mounted to a steel plate.)








This is my electrical schema now:



As for the stuff on top, I've pulled the old battery, solenoid, starter relay and start button from the bike, and keeping it separate. Whenever I need the electric start (when working on the bike), I can just hook that up to the start motor.

I'm converting the lighting to all-DC to simplify things. (Otherwise, apart from the extra AC regulator/circuit I would also need two more relays to control them from the m-unit.)

I'm dropping the two brake switches (the front one since I'm going with 50's style controls, and the rear since I'm getting rid of the toolboxes.) I'm replacing them with a gearbrake, which lights up the brake light whenever the bike slows down, or when it's in neutral. The audicator is controlled the same way.

[Gwilly]

Munit, audicator plus gear break gizmo? All looks great...

I feel old and inadequate, think i'll go down to the park and feed the ducks....

[Adrian]

Nice job, glad it all worked out.



I see you have both sides of the alternator feeding into the regulator/rectifier, Pete Snidal would approve!



A.