Forum

[Mark58]

Hello, I bought myself a 2008 electra x a few months ago and I am slowly trying to get my head around a few things about the bike.
As it tends to kick back on starting and also pops and splutters when i throttle down I thought checking the ignition timing would be a good idea. After reading a few things on the forum and online it seems that the ignition timing can not be checked or really adjusted! Is this correct? From what I have read it looks like replacing the TCI unit or trying the timing adjustment keys from Hitchcocks are the only ways of improving the ignition timing? Is that correct? If using the timing keys is it a case of trial and error as I see 4 keys are sold with different degree adjustments?
Would I be right in thinking that the kick and spit backs could alternatively be a carburation problem? The guy I bought it from told me he had replaced the original silencer with a straight through one from India. Again from what i have read it looks like the carb jets should be changed if the silencer is changed. Can anyone tell me what size carb jets I need if a unrestricted silencer is used [do i need to check if the down pipe is also straight through}?
Last mystery [at the minute anyway] concerns the electra x manual or CD by Pete Snidal, one or two online comments I have read have been critical of these so any advice regarding what is the best workshop manual for this bike would be appreciated.
Thanks for any advice, I have a feeling in my water these mysteries are just the tip of the iceberg!

[ric]

120 main jet if you also have the K&N DU-0100 air filter fitted or a 117.5 if you don't will work fine with an unrestricted exhaust and UK unleaded petrol.

[Tim NZ]

The popping and farting on the over run will most likely be due to an air leak at the muffler/header pipe?


But the pilot air screw 'may' be set on the weak side..?


To minimise Kick Back, (lower compression) the barrel deck height was increased by 0.7mm in 2007, plus you should have the 'Green' TCI box? That has a delay in the firing of the ignition to allow for starter motor current draw and allow the crank to get up to speed when using the Thumb Start?


The only effective way to adjust the ign timing is with an Offset wood-ruff key on the 'magneto' rotor. Most seem to like 4deg retarded...


SFA jet options for the CV carb but at a pinch you can fit the common Mikcarb main jet: #120. Better off replacing the carb, but dont expect any great improvement in higher rpm performance; stock cam timing is not conducive to high revs.


IF you have any problems with the Big-end, the replacement rod/brg kit for the UCE motors fits and is relatively inexpensive.

[ric]

If you look up the post on the British Bulleteers Technical forum (jan3rd 2008) there's a few other free tips that will help to improve the fuelling.
sorry can't do links on the device I'm using.

[Adrian]

For ease of reference - if I may - ric's full info from 2008 is quoted below. Just spent an hour looking for it myself!

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"The original idea of experimentation was to improve mid range performance, not top end performance, although I did end up with both. MPG has improved as this set up is a lot less restrictive than stock, but realistically the additional MPG obtained will never be recovered against the costs incurred, but it nicer to be able to stretch that distance between fill-ups.



The Electra 29mm CV carb can still work fairly effectively on the bike providing its acompanied with a few other changes.



The standard filter needs to be changed for its direct K&N replacement, the DU-0100, this will fit straight into the air box. The eliptical/circular hole in the baffle plates inside the box need to be opened up to allow a better flow of air inside the chamber. Remove a 2mm wide strip from each half of the box.



Replace the standard downpipe with a Hitchcocks unrestricted one.



Replace the standard silencer with a free flow unit.



Adjust the carb mixture screw to around 4 turns out.



Raise the needle up one notch to its highest position.



Remove 0.8mm from the base of the slide - it may require a little more but this was the point at which mine seemed better than stock.



Increase the main jet from 110 to 120. This was the largest size I found was needed on my bike when running a straight through exhaust. 117.5 may work as well if using a slightly restricted set up.



A couple of hours of porting work to clean up the casting imperfections, (especially the exhaust)



BR9EIX Iridium plug"



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For identification purposes the standard exhaust pipe with the lean burn inner actually tapers in at the cylinder head exhaust port end on later Electras, clearly visible without removing the pipe, our hosts' unrestriced Electra-X pipe also has a tighter radius bend at the bottom and is a bit less "swoopy". Is that a word? It is now. It is possible to de-restrict the original pipe.



There is another modification to the CV carb carried out by our Indian friends with the 500 AVL Machismo (home market version of the Electra-X, some different tinware but same engine and carb), which you can read about here:



http://www.indiancarsbikes.in/automotiv ... carb-9399/

.

If you do go for an aftermarket carb there's plenty of choice available, you're not restricted to the Mk1 Amal concentric.



A.

[John M]

I have found with mine that it only kicks back if I have a wide throttle opening when kicking it over. Keep the throttle virtually closed and I'm sure you will notice a difference. As for the popping and banging on the overrun, my money is on an air leak in the exhaust.

[Beezabryan]

John M has the simple answer to a simple question. Now needs someone to explain how to re-seal the pipe/head joint and our new friend will be out and about enjoying his new ride

[Presto]

To re-seal pipe/header joint how about new exhaust sealing gasket and, if necessary, a smear of clear silicon instant gasket to provide extra sealing capabilities?

[Mark58]

Many thanks for the replies and the useful advice and info. I have to be honest and admit that as the bikes performance seems OK to me I don't really want to go spending money upgrading gear unless I have to. So regarding a point made by Adrian concerning derestricting the original down pipe is that a case of just pulling out any internal baffles? Or is it not as simple as that. So the plan is to ensure I have a unrestricted down pipe and silencer, ensure I try and seal the down pipe to head joint. Change main carb jet and maybe air filter as per advice along with checking pilot screw setting. Also have a gander at TCI colour. Keep throttle shut when kicking over. If not happy after all that try the 4 degree offset key! What could go wrong? Thanks again, thoughts on best workshop manual to buy still would be appreciated.

[sofiaspin]

Just been round the houses with a 2008 Electra in pursuit of creating a easy road burner with an ability to cruise at a higher speed. Without boring you, the kickback was cured by taking the sprag out, and just using kickstart, which is now much easier to turn over. No need for Woodruff keys or all that gubbins as ignition is set by TCI. Interfere with stock set up at your peril, as we did! Mine has the hosts Mk1 Amal jetted to suit 50s open pipe. I put a bellmouth on the carb and removed the air filter. It banged and popped until by trial and error I got the pilot air screw bang on which is a bit further out than the expected one and a quarter full turns. Nothing to do with air leaks around carb or exhaust (both new gaskets). The baffle is out in the exhaust but it is still a bit rich around the plug head, not the electrode, however it performs superbly, is quiet (tappets needed adjusted) and races up to 70mph quick enough. So to recap - Amal Mk1 from hosts; hosts exhausts in 50s style; long bellmouth with gauze; get airscrew out a half turn further on carb. No throttle on start up but choke half on, prime barrel by pulling in decompressor and kicking over 3 times after tickling carb and get up to compression or just over, then a firm smooth kick, not a penalty taking kick. I have the same set up on my 08 classic 4 speed, but it was a lot easier to set up, and far more tolerant with settings, and a easy first time starter. 85mpg at 55mph, but a nice rapid, smooth machine now. Wish I had read Tim's set up notes earlier!