Forum

[Grunt]

Follow on to "OILS? MANUFACTURER?" First thanks for the advice from all.
However I now realize that the comparison I asked for was eronious in that the New dealer uses a SEMI synthetic ie Motul 5100 15W50 for a new bike as against the other dealer using a FULLY synthetic ie Silkolene Pro4 15W50 for his new bikes.
So I think the argument is more relevant in that:-
a) Which dealer is more correct in use of FULL or SEMI in a new engine?
b) And again, can these two olis be mixed? and what would huppen if they are?
Now, just to clarify as to why I'm asking this silly question, I'm the guy who wrote off one bike from one dealer and have a few lt. of oil for that one and mow have a new bike from a different dealer and will have to stock up with a new oil - maybe - over to you.

[zonggong]

The manual for my B5 says (and I believe it is the same for all current models) use an Ester - semi synthetic oil or equivalent 15W-50 API SL, JASO MA. There are a number of brands available that meet this criteria. The 15W-50 refers to the oils viscosity whilst the API SL and JASO MA refer to it's required quality. JASO MA is important for the clutch operation. My previous comments on the earlier thread are still relevant. I recommend you do your own test if you are not sure.

[Rattlebattle]

To what Zonggong has said I would add that I started with the recommended Motul semi-synthetic, but as this is relatively difficult to buy locally I switched to Valvolene fully synthetic. The key factor to me is the JASO MA classification. In fact the Valvolene is 15/60 viscosity but as it is JASO MA I'll happily use it. I use the same oil in my Hinckley Triumph Twin, essentially the same type of engine/transmission. There should be no problem mixing the two; the remaining amount of Motul is too expensive not to use IMHO.

[Exile]

Why not just go over to good old Castrol 20/50 in everything and be done with it..??

[ric]

The current UCE EFI engines were designed using Motul 5100 15w50 Semi synth.
Probably why it's been recommended by REI as their preferred oil. I use the same grade but oil manufactured by Fuchs.

[Rattlebattle]

Hinckley Triumph recommended Mobil 1 for years, then switched to Castrol. Specification is more important than brand; with the possible exception of Norton rotaries (Shell Rotella oil) I can't think of a single manufacturer whose bikes really need a specific brand.

[Nettshubby]

I remember the advise given regarding oil for a new bike, or re built engine, was not to use synthetic oil whilst running in, as the parts won't bed in properly due to the improved lubrication properties of the synthetic oil. BTW I use 20-50 synthetic in my 2003 Sixty 5 with no problems and it runs great!

[Grunt]

Thanks – that gives me a part answer to the reply I was going to feed in so unchanged and here it is ....
Thanks again all but there was a point that I had hoped would have been taken up and that being the running in of the new engines. I have heard (yes, I know) that a new engine has to be run in and that a fully synth oil would be too lubricating so the mating surfaces would not marry. So not allowing the sections to “run in” and so defeat the attempt to “run in” the engine. And b) That new engines and parts are machined to such a high standard that running in of the component parts is over rated and that it’s fine to run the engine on fully synth from the word go and indeed that the R.E. recommended running –n speeds and duration are just a thing carried over from the past. Any truth here?

[Revband]

Running in?, Everyone has an opinion, I recently read a book by Hughie Hancox relating to when he was a test rider for Triumph, back then every bike was tested before crating up and every one was tested flat out straight from the factory. Hey and then the user manual instructs you how to run it in at various low speed for a thousand miles, a bit late for that?. Modern engineering is far superior even in India possibly?.

[Gwilly]

I have always considered it important to dump the oil which will contain silvery specks of metal and other contaminates such as gasket sealant within the first hundred miles..

I guess using a cheap mineral oil to throw away would be sensible considering the cost over fully synthetic which you could use after..

More important is not to be too light with the throttle as the rings will never bed into the cylinder and form a good seal.

Better to drive normally with different throttle settings including a few short blasts at wide open throttle, then a bit of coasting downhill to keep the temperature down..

Never cruise on a motorway with constant throttle as it will overheat and go pop...