Forum

[NicoV]

I am removing the Boyer electronic ignition. It is a big step backwards for me.
I followed the procedure described in the manual. My Bullets starts and runs, but with much more difficulty. When using the stroboscopic lamp I see it consistenly has too much advance, even with the plate turned fully clockwise.
Two points are very difficult to accept for me:
- the Bullet starts with much more difficulty: it previously started at the first kick even on a cold morning, at most at the second. Now it takes five to ten kicks, and it always backfires
- I honestly find it so difficult losing the TDC orientation with the ammeter. Not a problem for experienced people, but it frightens me if my Bullet stalls in full Oslo traffic.
My conclusion is that the electronic ignition is a step backwards for me, and needs to be removed. It has zero advantages to me.

[Cleggy]

If you run out of adjustment turning the plate clockwise, you should simply remove the centre rotor & reposition it (anti-clockwise to retard I believe).
The Ammeter should also still show a discharge with Boyer or Pazon, unless you have taken the power from a different location (bypassing or wrong side of Ammeter wiring. Don't give up now just for the sake of moving that rotor. They are best when timed up correctly.

[Exile]

Quote: "I followed the procedure described in the manual."


Strange. So did I. Never had a problem with it. Fired up straight away and runs like a good 'un...

I second the "try again" motion put forward by Cleggy.

[PeteF]

Well it will kickback if it's too advanced, just move the rotor. My bike starts easier with the Boyer now I have it tweaked in properly.

[PeteF]

And you'll have just as much trouble timing the old system back in than getting the Boyer right.

[NicoV]

Thanks for the replies.
I got it to work correctly. Before sending this not so optimistic message, I had already changed the rotor to get less advance. I had changed it anticlockwise far too much.
I read in the manual that each change multiplies by two by the crankshaft.
So, I did the whole aligning again as described in the manual. Then I changed the rotor a tiny little bit anticlockwise, and now it is correct. Starting is much better, even though I will still have to learn to find the sweet spot for kickstarting. I just took a test drive for more than 50 km, and the engine runs well.