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[jefrs]

papasmurf, the wheel spindle nuts both ends, and the swinging arm and the larger engine mounts, are all 7.00kgm (70Nm) torque. I can easily over-do that; I find the easiest way to undo wheel nuts is by lifting the end of the spanner, trying to lift the vehicle, as sometime putting your foot on the spanner is not enough. I have a long expanding wheel-nut spanner for over-tightened nuts, it would fit in a pannier. I only carry a few small tools, if I were on tour or expedition I would, I rely on the mobile phone to yell for help, bring tools.

Just for a giggle, the standard tool kit does contain a 21x24mm tubular spanner and a tommy bar, about as much use as a block of swiss cheese.

[2cvandy]

Resurrecting an old thread here because I've done a search and not quite found what I was looking for.

Re=fitting the rear wheel today (Electra EFI) I noticed that it's really easy to tighten the spindle nut until the castellations are well past the holes for the split pin. Now I know that the spindle needs very little torque, but I've fitted a washer behind the nut where there was none before, and yet by the time the split pin holes line up the spindle nut is barely beyond finger tight.

Trying to figure out if I have something missing, but all looks correct as per the parts diagrams.

So is this normal? I've never come across a wheel spindle that couldn't be tightened before.

[2cvandy]

Well I pulled it apart again, and it seems pretty obvious that the rear spindle has been over tightened at some point.

The long spacer on the LH side appears to just rest against the wheel bearing grease seal, which of course is easily crushed.

Not having a new one to hand, I have straightened it out in the vice for now and re-fitted it, but even so, I still needed a washer under the nut to get the split pin holes to line up with the castellations.

It seems a pretty flimsy idea to me, am I missing something?

[Haggis]

Spacer should not but up against the grease seal, you will just crush it when you tighten up the spindle. There is a small secondary spacer fits inside the grease seal and butts up against the wheel bearing. What have you done with it?🔧

[Leon Novello]

Not sure about the C5, but the Bullet`s rear mudguard pivots up. A bit more work with a dual seat. Check that the tyre has not been rubbing on the wiring harness while you are under there.
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[2cvandy]

You are absolutely right on both counts Haggis. There should be a secondary spacer and yes, when I took the wheel out the seal had indeed been crushed. What confused me is that I was convinced that there surely ought to be a spacer in there but there isn't one shown on the parts diagram. Anyway, seal and spacer have been sourced and replaced, and yes, the whole thing fits much better now. I should have checked earlier really, because when I bought the bike I noticed the front spindle had been fitted badly, the pinch bolts on the fork leg had been tightened before the spindle nut, with the result that the bottom of the fork legs were being pulled together. It's always a risk with a SH bike I guess, you never know who's been there before!

[2cvandy]

Thanks Leon, but it's not really a problem on my bike,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[scotty]

I have a rear wheel nut on a 2016 B5 no r clip 2 metal ears inside nut was told years ago that type of nut was a secure lock and if removed borh nut and bolt have to be replaced, replaced with a nyloc but axle thread dont look thebest condition I have had the B5 from new so it was factory fitted. Much prefer the castle nut and R clip method, ah the joys of ow ing a indian built motorcycle.