Forum

[Mark58]

Oh bugger! just a few months into owning my 2008 electra x and I have took the plunge and decided to investigate a engine knock. After removing the head and barrel I do not think the cause of the knocking is piston slap but I have found noticable play on the small end and also up and down movement and knocking audible on the big end. It is a few decades since i last did work of this nature so I dont profess to be very knowledgable. Anyway I think I am now faced with either selling this bike as it is or fully striping the engine and getting the big end sorted!
Consequently I have quite a few concerns and queries. It looks like buying a improved big end/conrod and paying to have it fitted on the crankshaft is my main option. Can anyone who has done this provide any helpful advice? I have seen on a previous post a comment from TIM NZ that a UCE big end can be used??
The blue covered electra x service manual that I have doesn't seem a great help as for a start the pictures are poor quality and the text is pretty limited but it does mention a quite a number of special tools required to strip the engine. I note Hitchcocks do not have all these tools available! I live in Durham City is there anyone near who could loan or sell me the tools needed to strip the engine? Some advice on which are the essential tools would be appreciated.
So all in all I am trying to weigh up my options before deciding what to do, It would seem along with new gaskets and oil seals considering replacing main bearings would also be wise if I strip the engine? Like I said before any advice appreciated.
thanks
Mark

[Adrian]

You have my sympathy. I recently stripped my Electra-X down, as far as the engine bottom end and removing the engine and gearbox, I think the only special tools I used were an extractor for the alternator rotor (incorrectly called a magneto extractor) and clutch locking tool, also you need a long series 12mm socket for the cylinder head nuts. Once you have the bottom end of the engine out and on the bench I'd pack the whole thing off to Henry Price who has rebuilt a few Electra-X engines after they did precisely what yours did.



http://www.pricepartmotorcycles.co.uk/contactus.html Telephone: 01454 261798



You will need new mains while the big end is being sorted, so effectively it will be a full bottom-end rebuild. Whatever else needs doing depends how much damage the steel particles from the failed big end has done - the gauze oil strainers unfortunately don't catch them all, the debris gets pumped around the engine, and you'll need to check the state of the cylinder bore and the oil pump chambers. The oil filter protects the big end, although it's a bit late to worry about it now!



If you do sell the bike in its present state you won't get much for it - my advice would be to get it rebuilt and back on the road so you can enjoy it, only remember to get a good sump magnet fitted...



A.

[Tim NZ]

The UCE big end - con rod assembly is the same as used in the Electra X. Available and inexpensive. Any competent bike shop familiar with rebuilding pressed up cranks will be able to remove/fit the assembly and retrue the shaft. The heart of the repair is only a 15 minute job, or less in the right hands and with the appropriate crank pre-assembly aligning jig.




The only special tool that you will need is the puller for the alternator rotor. And possibly one for the crankshaft timing pinion. The factory crank pinion puller is an absolute WOTAM. (I have three broken ones all failed on first use)


EASY OPTION: strip mtr down to case/crank assy, send to H and get them to finish dismantling and rebuilding the Short motor assy.


When all goes good it is 2 hours work, including cleaning time, plus parts, but allow for four hours charge out time at worst.


IMHO our Hosts 'improved' steel con rod with insert is NOT required. In my experience the stock steel Con-rod is fine. It is only the rollers and crank pin that suffer from wear, and that wear is for the most part due to depleted oil and water entrapment. (Water emulsified oil ~ poor eng breather pipe routing, short trips and too long between oil changes). Change the oil every 2000m/3000km and no longer than every 6 months; earlier is better!


The barrel on your 2008 is slightly taller than that fitted to the early models, so you should not have any problems associated with ignition timing and too - high a compression.

[PeteF]

I helped a friend with this problem a bit ago albeit on a Bullet rather than an Electra. We stripped the engine and split the crankcase in order to clean everything up. It was then loosely reassembled and sent off to the experts (in this case our own "Bullet Whisperer) to fit a new big end and mains.
My mate went for the steel con rod but as Tim says, it's probably overkill on a standard engine.
While it was away we did the valves etc. and, as the bore was OK, it was straightforward spannering to reassemble.

[Adrian]

Pete,



steel con-rods are standard on the Electra-X - something they did get right. White metal fragments from a failed floating bush on a classic Bullet big end can cause all sorts of mayhem if they block the rocker feed, but they're less abrasive than the steel particles from a failed Electra crankpin.



As a de-luxe fix for Mark's bike, he could fit our hosts' performance crankshaft for the Electra-X, but has anyone seen the price lately?



A.

[ric]

Be even more expensive if the VAT rate goes up!

[PeteF]

Adrian,
I didn't know that but, as I said, I was working on a Bullet. Is the EFI steel as well?

[Davie Hall]

Hi Mark. I had the same problem as you and I chose to rebuild the engine. As for service tools I have everything except the tool to fit the circlip to the decompressor. Im in the Borders not far from Kelso so if you decide to rebuild the engine yourself you can borrow my service tools

[Adrian]

Pete, as Tim explains the UCE (EFI as far as we're concerned) engines use the same con rod and big end as the Electra-X, so that's good news - even better if the big end pin quality has improved. A.

[Mark58]

OK thanks for the replies so far,
The Henry Price info is helpful.
As for Tim's suggestion regarding the UCE/EFI big end conrod assemly, where would you buy this from? I assume it would come with the crankpin but i am struggling to find anyone who who is listing this part. I can't see it in Hitchcocks parts.
If the existing conrod is steel and ok quality then could I get away with buying a new big end bearing and crankpin and getting someone to fit it or isn't it that simple?
Pete mentions the Bullet Whisperer as a option for the rebuild, can anyone tell me how to contact him.
Infact is there a way of contacting forum members directly?
Last but not least Davie Hall thank you for your kind offer I probably would like to take you up on the it. Davie if you could please contact me we can discuss the matter, my email is [email protected] or mobile no 07887352890