Forum

[Presto]

I’m not sure that the 'smaller pipe' is a catalytic converter on an Electra X. To my knowledge it is simply a sleeved pipe. Our hosts sell a derestricted down pipe that many have found to improve performance – I can’t comment on the ‘physics’ of this just that it seems to work! As has been suggested the popping and banging is most likely due to an air leak in the exhaust system, maybe at the head joint, less likely between down pipe and silencer.

[papasmurf]

Well I am sure it is a catalytic converter, Enfields have had them fitted for years to models imported into Britain, unless the owner fits another "freer flowing" downpipe.

[Presto]

'Hot tube' type catalytic converter - which is simply a sleeved tube. Or am I wrong?

[ric]

Yes it's a Hot Tube.
No rare earth metals - just a restrictive tube that raises exhaust gases sufficiently enough to burn off more contamina than one without.

[Tim NZ]

Hot-Tube it is, a misnomer of a poor-mans catalytic converter. Along with having an 'after burn' effect on the over-run, it reduces performance to the extent that the bike actually uses far MORE petrol to travel the same distance than with out. The net result is that it actually creates more pollution. Thank you EU.


They are spot welded into the tail pipe and can be removed with a cold-chisel and hammer.

[sofiaspin]

Seems an easy fix to me Mark - stop mucking about, get rid of the Micarb and all the airbox and filter rubbish, throw away the exhaust, and buy our hosts 50s style exhaust and an Amal Mk1 concentric jetted to suit. Your answers are in an upgrade to an extensively researched package of carb and pipe.

[Adrian]

Mark,

don't worry about torquing the exhaust nuts, just nip them up tight with a ring spanner or socket. The originals rust quickly, but a pair of M8 stainless steel nuts (get the flanged type) is a very quick upgrade.



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A.

[jefrs]

And if you take the baffles out of a 'free-flow' exhaust, you lose torque, simple as that; you then bend the baffles to tune the exhaust. Very far from bollocks. Wide open exhausts are for racing at full throttle, you get max power at high revs but you lose tractable grunt at low revs. Go and try it. H's 'free-flow' silencer has baffles for good reason.

[jefrs]

I would use the torque wrench on the flange nuts especially if they're going rusty because it is not easy to get them evenly tightened by hand, and they have to be evenly tightened to get a good seal on the gasket. It is also very easy to over-tighten them by hand. A gap here will not only result in reversion popping but also make a lot of noise and lack of power. Coppereze will stop the studs rusting. Because the fasteners run hot, the nuts should be 'soft' so they will conform to expansion, stainless is a very hard material, long brass or bronze nuts would be a better substitute.

[PeteF]

However, (sigh)
If the studs are rusty the torque wrench will not be accurate - at all.
Anyone who can't tighten a couple of nuts down something like evenly by hand is either a complete novice or should have his tools confiscated.