Forum

[Clement]

My Bullet has close to 23,000 miles on the clock and I wonder about the oil pumps, oil pump spindle wear etc etc, although everything seems to be okay.
Reading up on a recent post by Barry N (re-using freshly breather oil)I came across a reply of Pete F mentioning using a piece of clear tube in the rocker feed to check functioning of pump. I don't know how effective this is but like the idea of a simple visual check: you cannot unto banjo bolts all the time while worrying about state of affairs. I checked the spindle (timing case off)which showed some wear but seemed okay. Saw on youtube a video about fitting an oil pressure meter to a 350 Bullet but did not like the wild swinging meter and the exposed mounting of it. My question to the Forum is: is there a simple way of checking oil supply? Should I replace the spindle anyway given the mileage? What about the idea of a piece of clear tube?
In short, which measures do you recommend/use yourselves (if any)? Many thanks. C.

[PeteF]

My reasoning for the clear tube is this;
On most designs of the period there was a remote oil tank and you could visually check that oil was returning by a quick look inside. If oil was returning it obviously was circulating, though whether it was going to the rockers was in doubt as they were usually fed from a spur on the return.
On the Enfield there is no quick way of checking - hence the clear tube.
If you do go this way, make sure the tube you use is oil proof. I fixed it with oetiker clips so it's nice and tidy and painted the back with white paint so it's easier to see the oil. The only problem is with fresh oil as it's difficult to see at a glance.
As the Enfield passes all the oil to the rockers (unless you have fitted a pressure refief) if you see oil at the tube you know it's going round everything.

I would think any noticeable wear on the oil pump drive is worrying and I'd replace the drive.
A gauge is one way to go but the pressure on these engines is worryingly low once they are hot.

[neddy]

have you owned it from new ?, if not how do you know that how long ago and any changes/mods have been done, if its running fine don't "fix" it

[Gwilly]

Why put the case back on knowing the spindle has wear? Now is the time to replace spindle and worm as new..
Check the disc faces and whilst your at it check in the rockers for any white metal. If all is clear then great, onward and upward..

[Tim NZ]

To check the return oil supply: loosen tappet cover with motor running. Or simply wait until the oil pump cover gasket blows? When the return oil ways are blocked and not passing oil the return oil pump cover gasket blows! (WARNING!WARNING!WARNING!)


If you plan on installing a clear plastic tube into the rocker oil feed, it will have to be reinforced and rated for 150 psi, and then you wont see any oil flow through such a tube...


Bike back-fires from time to time? Apart from retarding the ign timing (moving the points plate 1mm is equal to approx 3 degrees of adjustment) you need to check the oil pump drive shaft and worm. Backfiring is the root cause of 99% of all wear and damage to the Oil pump drive shaft & worm.


If one has fitted High flow oil pumps, pump shaft spindle wear can become an issue, especially with pre 2002 bikes, and motors that routinely Wet-Sump.




The leading contributing factor that leads to premature engine failure is old, dirty, worn out oil. The effects of Oil degradation from ring Blow-by and a worn exhaust valve guide is not offset by adding 1 pint of new oil for every 500-600 miles. Change your oil every 1500 miles, no more, and oil cavitation (wear) potential is mininised.


Change the oil more frequently (1000m) if you love your bike, the older (Pre AVL/UCE) Bullets in particular...

[Leon Novello]

There are sight glasses available which fit into braided oil lines, or a temperature gauge can be fitted which usually stays around 50C and will move rapidly to higher temperatures if there is any oil starvation. The temperature gauge has the advantage of being able to be viewed whilst riding.
[center]


[/center]

[jefrs]

If the oil has gone filthy black then it's detergents have been used up, change the oil. If it feels thin and watery when you rub a drop between your fingers then it's lubrication has gone home, its long-chain hydrocarbon molecules chopped up like putting fruit in a blender, change the oil. This might occur below 1000 miles to 3000 miles and normal oil change service time. If the oil has gone home don't wait for service but change the oil, it is not there just for the motor but to keep stuff like the oil pumps working nicely too.

[Exile]

"close to 23,000 miles on the clock"

"everything seems to be okay"

"worrying about state of affairs"

"I checked the spindle....which showed some wear but seemed okay"


Yep. Definitely needs fixing until it's broken....!

Heed the words of Gwilly.

[PeteF]

Tim, strange, that bit of reinforced clear tube has been in place for about 10k miles. It seems to be managing.

[Clement]

Thank all for your comments. Got the message: more regular oil change and replace oil pump spindle, plungers and discs; am not a technical wizard but it seems straight forward.

C