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[Nettshubby]

Actually, thinking about what I just posted, it shouldn't matter which way round they are, the same notch will be the same distance from the hole centre line either way. It may be worth checking if the pins they rest on are the same distance from the swing arm spindle!

[jefrs]

ric - we drive on the left in Britain but I assume one would try no-hands on a straight and level stretch although is is possible and actually necessary to steer by shifting your weight with one's hands off the bars.

Having the bars parallel to the front wheel spindle was what I was getting at about twisting the forks with the lower yoke pinch loosened. Note that on the current C5 at least the fork tops are firmly screwed into the top yoke and are not going to move, so twisting the forks will just resettle them in the lower yoke before re-tightening. It is possible to realign top and bottom yokes but that is more complicated, for example if the bike has been dropped.



netshubby - yes, if frame and forks and wheels are perfect then both snail cams would be on the same notch.

[zonggong]

Thanks all for your help and suggestions. I've redone the alignment procedure but the result is the same. I've also measured the distance between the swing arm fulcrum and axle and both sides are the same with the adjustment I've made - now RHS 13 and LHS 10, a difference of 3. The distance between the cam pin and the end of the swing arm plate is the same both sides. This link should take you to 3 photos 1 with the snail cams set equally with a large RHS clearance, 2. with the snail cams set LHS 10 and RHS 13, still a RHS clearance of about 18mm front and back of the wheel and 3. rear wheel alignment setup. http://goo.gl/VLHbW4 My thinking now is that the wheels are out of plane by about 9mm. I noticed that on the RHS of the axle there are 2 washers between the swing arm plate and the brake drum. Removing these and placing them on the LHS would make about the right amount of difference. I won't do that yet but will make an appointment with the dealer to have a closer look. The bike is less than 6 months old and hasn't had any misfortunes so I'll see what they say. Thanks again for your help and interest. I'll reply in a few days when I have some info from the dealer.

[vince]

Hi, The cams are NOT the same on each side as they have to fit different diameter shafts, also how good a fit are they, any play and you could be miles out. The other factor is how accurate is the positioning of the cam stop? The object is to get the wheels in alignment not to get equal cams. Vince

[Haggis]

There is only one thick washer on rhs between swingarm and brake plate on my 2016 c5. No washers on left, just a big spacer.

[jefrs]

Vince - when I overlaid them, I was of course referring to the outer edge, and they do look like they were stamped out of the same machine. By 'not handed', poor choice of words, I meant you could turn them over. And the cam stop pin placement is part of the tolerance factor.

Haggis - yes there is only one thick washer - which I found on the shed floor after reassembling brake and wheel. QED - doh!

[jefrs]

zonggong - http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... Rear_Wheel_ this shows only one washer, part 11 which goes inside the swinging arm and spacer part 6 on the LHS. What (exact) model bike do you have, year-model and geographic region (they vary)?



If I were to try to fit two washers on the RHS then I doubt I would get the brake plate nut on. I cannot imagine why you have two washers there other than faulty assembly, which is not uncommon. But you can do the nut up which means the washers may be thinner. The brake plate thread is large diameter, the washer would not fit the spindle on the LHS. RE do change specs without notice, they may have gone to two washers



Another area of tolerance is wheel dishing where the rim is pulled left or right by the spokes, very common on push bikes with unequal dishing to accommodate the dérailleur.



Your bike is too clean

[jefrs]

For some reason part of my reply to netshubby got chopped off - I intend to re-do the alignment somewhen soon because I have a trifling left/right thing on power/braking. I fancy vertical alignment because I have had the wheel out to re-do the brake (practically perfect now) and put it back as-was, or one more notch LHS. But, big but, we are currently enjoying a burst water supply pipe and that has my full attention. Otoh I really really need a break from plumbing contractors...

[Frank]

Seems a bit unlikely to me that a bike that was being ridden around quite happily with even notches should suddenly become 4 notches out in the space of one notch adjustment on one side. On the rare occasions I have adjusted the chain on my bike I sometimes end up with one notch difference. That is because the brake shoes rub if set evenly. Possibly alignment is out but it has never been an issue noticeable when riding or commented on in the MOT.

[zonggong]

Thanks again for the suggestions. I haven't been to the dealer yet but here is some additional information about the bike. It is a 2015 B5 which I purchased new from a dealer in Melbourne Australia. The axle nut is not castellated as in the drawing but a 24mm lock nut and this locks the 30mm axle nut in place. There is plenty of thread left on the axle shaft. The 2 washers I spoke of are about 2.5 mm thick and that makes the total about 5 mm. Actually it looks like they are there to allow some clearance for the rear brake actuator. The bike rides OK up to about 80km/hr (50 mph) after which it becomes uncomfortable due to some vibrations (this was an additional reason to look at the alignment). There is no way it could 'cruise' at 100 km/hr (70 mph) - in my opinion. Another thought ... would putting the bike on axle stands under the foot pegs place any stress on the frame that could deflect it while I was 'aligning the wheels?