Forum

[nigelphoto]

Rattle - I've got a handbook with my 2016 B5 which is what I quoted from so I think they have updated it. I also found the later handbook in pdf form on another Forum (may have been Midland Bike Riders, but as brain is fading nowadays can't be sure).

[Rattlebattle]

Ah, that's interesting. My handbook has a picture of the early turquoise and cream C5 and does not refer to the kick starter at all. Looks like they've updated it. I'd love to know what changes have been made. Thanks for the info.

[hagis]

Interesting to see the comments made on RE manuals, My 2009 Bullet Electra EFI came with a owners manual and a service manual, The owners manual does not tell you how to change the oil, but the service manual does, My CGT came with only a owners manual and this does tell you how to change the oil, so something changed between 2009 and 2016 in that you now get less info with a new bike, All three of these books seem to suffer a translation problem and you have to guess what the mean.

[nigelphoto]

As we've gone from oil changes to manuals how about this from a 1962 Honda Manual?

1 At the rise of the hand by Policeman, stop rapidly. Do not pass him by or otherwise disrespect him.

2 When a passenger of the foot, hooves in sight, tootle the horn trumpet melodiously at first. If he obstacles your passage, tootle him with vigour and express by word of mouth, warning Hi Hi.

3 Beware of the wandering horse that he shall not take fright as you pass him. Do not explode the exhaust box at him. Go soothingly by.

4. Give big space to the festive dog that makes sport in roadway. Avoid entanglement of dog with wheel spokes.

5 Go soothingly on the grease road, as there lurks the skid demon. Pass the brake foot as you roll around the corners, and save collapse and tie up.

[25Tom]

Best manual text I've ever seen!

My manual (for new 2016 C5) is dated September 2015 and states:
* remove the oil drain plug and the suction filter underneath the crank-case
* remove the oil filter on the right crank-case cover
* allow oil to drain completely by tilting the motorcycle to both sides
* wash the drain plug and suction filter thoroughly and refit....

So it only said undo two things under the crank-case: drain plug and suction filter (plus the filter cover on RH crank). I'd foolishly assumed the drain plug and suction filter were the two apparent drain-bolts on the bottom of the crank case. But now I understand the 'suction filter' must be the thing covered by the small plate with two bolts, which I also should have removed, in addition to the two drain bolts.

I'm guessing I need to remove this plate and clean the suction filter this weekend. Will it be OK to re-use the oil and leave everything else as is, or should I start again from scratch and replace the oil and filter again? Also, Haywards provided me with oil and a new filter... but some of the kits seem to come with a handful of different sized round seals... should I have had these too??

Sorry for my ignorance. If anyone can point me to a video or better instructions than those in the handbook, I'd be very grateful. Tom.

[jefrs]

There are actually /three/ drain points - the main sump, the little filter and under the crank. The two bolts do require copper washers, the little filter needs an O-ring for the 30mm OD and 25mm ID groove and the standard O-ring may be too thin to seal the cap. Oil will also drain out of the main filter. Depending on year-model, the O-rings in the filter kit may or may not fit, do check the old O-ring sizes against the new ones. Even removing all the plugs and tilting the bike, no, not all of the old oil comes out.

[Boxerman]

@nigelphoto
That is so good I've pinched it and put it on another forum - credited to you of course.

Frank

[nigelphoto]

Frank - you're very welcome, but it actually came from US Honda. It was a translation provided by the Japanese for the early imports of the Honda Safety manual. 25Tom - don't worry about the various seals included in the engine service kit. Normally the seals can withstand 2 or 3 oil changes but it is important not to use the crush washers (copper rings) on the primary and secondary drain bolts more than twice. Remove the two M4 bolts on the oil pickup housing plate and the gauze filter will drop out. Clean the filter with petrol and reassemble, making sure the mating surfaces are clean (O ring seal especially). Tighten the bolts to 4 lbs ft (a torque wrench will cost about £20 and its worth the investment). Same torque, incidentally for the 3 M4x30 for the cartridge filter housing. Look at our hosts parts book for the correct order of O ring seals. Simples!

[25Tom]

@Nigelphoto: thanks for that - I'm off to buy a torque wrench so I can sort everything out this afternoon. Really helpful advice and much appreciated. Thanks also @Jefrs.

[jefrs]

I have a tiny little weep from the little filter cover. I /think/ the cover distorts - the two bolts bend it over the filter proper, I ran a fine file over it which levelled it up, it seals a little better now but... The stock O-ring seems too thin to do the job, the groove is too deep. I have recently sourced 2.5mm and 3.0mm thick nitrile O-rings but yet to fit, should work. I got 30mm OD and 25mm ID on my own caliper. The two copper sump washers are standard sizes but the rearmost one can get hung up on the lip in the casting so make sure it is down and flat before spannering.