Forum

[Jojje]

As the left fork leg of my Electra (X) 2005 is again leaking (blessings of the disc brake) I'm taking the whole front apart for new seals. Left one was very easy but the right stanchion resists all my efforts to loosen. I even managed to twist the tool (old 1/2" hex bar between foot rests). Hitting the proper hex tool with a hammer won't do it. I left some penetrating oil working for the night but I doubt it makes no difference as everything seemed shiny and oily inside already... If it won't surrender after hot air gun I'll leave it as it is - at least it's not leaking...
Has anyone else encountered problems at this section?

[Adrian]

Possibly some sort of corrosion setting in? Heat ought to work as the alloy of the casquette will expand more than the steel of the fork stanchion. I don't know about the chemistry of bi-metallic corrosion between hard chrome and cast alloy, but if you haven't already thought of it, perhaps add a good smear of anti-seize compound on the threads when you reassemble it? I must admit I haven't had to disturb my Electra's forks since I fitted the alloy cafe racer top yoke from our hosts ten years ago, but I haven't heard of this happening elsewhere.



A.

[vince]

Hi, If the stanchion wont come off, leave it in place and dismantle from the bottom, take slider off fit seals and reassemble. vince

[Jojje]

Hot air gun didn't help at all. Sitting rock hard. Surprisingly the slider won't come off either - I'm puzzled. At least I could change the leaky left leg seals. (I've changed both legs maybe 7-8 years ago.) A notch could be felt in middle position of the head bearing when there was less load to swing about... Better start collecting spares for future. I hope this season is manageable.
I just hate it when minor things escalate to something not expected.

[Adrian]

Perhap the hot air gun isn't powerful enough, consider a propane torch! (and some touch-up paint for later), would repeated heating be necessary if it is well corroded?



One of the favourite potions for freeing up corrosion-seized vintage stationary engines was common diesel, maybe try soaking in that?



A.

[PeteF]

The hot air gun will not put enough chunk of metal. You could try getting some penetrating oil (no, not WD40 - the proper stuff)
I'm assuming, as you got the right one off OK that you are twisting the right way. It's clockwise from the top to undo it.

[PeteF]

Should read:
"will not put enough heat into what is quite a chunk of metal"

[Jojje]

"Never underestimate the power of the dark side" - this time in the form of stupid blindness preventing seeing unloosened pinch bolt in the steering stem!
Well, better this way... Of course, no corrosion whatsoever on the thread bearing even evidence of molykote or something from eight years ago.
I did try the hot air gun (2000W) yesterday, I think it gave plenty of heat - that paintwork is surprisingly durable.

[PeteF]

You know Jojje, many people wouldn't have owned up to that )

[Jojje]

Thanks, PeteF - and all for support!
Humbleness is learned the hard way...