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[Foz]

I managed to get out for a afternoon ride, cleared it with the wife
So went out for a long ride.
So after 2 hours or so I felt a judder, I was in top gear cruising
Along all was fine it only did this once before I pulled over
For a brew I then decided to head home and after 20 mins
I got a judder again this time it was in 3rd gear and then 1hr on
Another 3 judders back to back and the mil light came on but I
was in top gear, I pulled over To inspect but could not find any
thing wrong. I'm at home now and I'm gona chea the mil codes tomorrow
To see what's going on.
Has anybody had this dream before?

The beast is a 2010 Electra EFi
Thank for the advise guys

[Leon Novello]

I don`t know anything about your model, but I do know that if something is broken or loose in the rear brake mechanism, this can cause the brake to engage and momentarily seize. I won`t go into the story about how I know this, SIGH! It might pay to have a look in there and let us know.

[Presto]

Leon I wouldn’t expect a rear brake problem to cause the MIL to come on. It seems to be an engine problem and the purpose of the MIL is to give you some idea of where and what the problem is. Best check the MIL codes rather than endlessly guess.

[Leon Novello]

You are right, Presto, I forgot about the MIL light. This is what happens when a post is read and not answered immediately. I did say that I didn`t know anything about that model.

[jefrs]

MIL lamp flashed up. Clue! Check the (cof) diagnostic code. This is a bit of a laugh because it will only tell you something interesting if the MIL lamp had stayed on. Intermittent fault then. The various connectors are known problem areas. Check the connectors on all sensors and relays, and the spade connectors hanging off the battery. Pulling them off and pushing them back on will not only re-secure them but scrape oxide layer off to clean them. Check and do same to all the fuses. Also check HT lead and HT cap are intact and fully connected to spark plug, it's an odd one but if they part company a little the motor will work but misfire at random.



Lurching can also be caused when running out of fuel, or blocked fuel filter. Low fuel pressure (42psi?) will cause the ecu to cut the ignition. But check electrics first as blocked filter usually not brief intermittent.

[jefrs]

Don't forget to check the spark plug. If it is fouling, you can get random misfires. If it misses a lot you get unburnt fuel which will make the next cycles rich and so you get a sooty plug which... vicious cycle.

Suggested spark gap 0.7mm = 28-thou. Too wide and it will miss and won't spark at high revs, too narrow and it will spark all over the place and won't rev up.

[jefrs]

But plug fouling won't make the MIL flash

[jefrs]

There's no edit here. Things that make MIL flash are dodgy connectors, followed by failing sensor or relay. Usually connectors

[Presto]

Not sure jefrs what you mean by 'This is a bit of a laugh because it will only tell you something interesting if the MIL lamp had stayed on'. The MIL can be connected at any time to test the system through the sequence of flashing lights. As I said - check the MIL and don't waste time guessing.

[jefrs]

Presto, I've been there with the MIL. Verbatim from E5/G5/C5 workshop manual "Level 1 visual - This is indicated by the lamp in the MIL glowing continuously. Check for any sensor loose connections and plug in properly. If still MIL GLOWS then check for the the problem by Test Pin or by DOL Tool".



Key phrase is, "MIL glowing continuously". MIL flashing on and off to me is an intermittent fault and most likely but not exclusively to be a loose connector to sensor, relay, fuse or from battery to ECU (not the thick leads).

The connectors on these bikes are a bit sub-par, rather thin and tend to oxidise.



The Test Pin will only tell you anything if the fault is on-going not after it has miraculously cleared itself. The DOL Tool might. By all means use the Test Pin. That will tell you to check - TPS, MAP, TE (engine oil temperature), O2 Sensor/Heater, Rollover Sensor (won't start) Injector Circuit (won't start), Ignition Coil (won't start), Fuel Pump (won't start), Crankshaft Position (won't start). In other words check all the sensor connectors, "Check for any sensor loose connections and plug in properly".