- Tue Jun 14, 2016 1:48 pm
#59077
Hey that's good 
I've had the head stay loose ('cos I forgot to) but did not cause vibration, dunno. The tank front is (mine C5) on rubber bungs but does not want to be overtightened because that crushes the thin metal tube inside the rubber and that does cause vibration. I've had the tank off a few times to get at wiring and noticed it can be bolted up lop-sided, that's the rear bolt, oops. There's a fair bit of play for adjustment fitting the tank needing three hands and a strategic knee.
I've also applied car rubber sill protector (3M, comes on a roll) along the frame top tube under the tank. The tank does not rest on it, it is there to kill vibration and it seems to work by dampening the tube from 'ringing'; any metal tube will ring like a tubular bell and will have harmonic frequencies, rubber makes a good vibration dampener or mute.
But the main culprit for vibration seems to be the front frame down tube, that tube is directly attached to the engine and hanging in the breeze. The silly thing is there is enough room to fit rubber engine mounts like on a car at the front tube.
I found the, also 50s free-flow, exhaust flange wanted to be nipped up concentric and square before hanging the silencer upon the bike, and then rotate the pipe in the flange and twist the silencer about, and bend the silencer stay arm in the vise to fit onto the bike before tightening the fasteners - then ran it and did it all again to get a better fit away from my boot heel and brake lever.
I couldn't get it in and under as far as I'd like because it interferes with the brake lever. Bit of a poor design, besides the brake pedal is supposed to be on the left
But go figure - the exhaust has always been on the right where it never got in the way of the gear lever, the brake pedal is a bodge to get under and around the exhaust pipe.
I've had the head stay loose ('cos I forgot to) but did not cause vibration, dunno. The tank front is (mine C5) on rubber bungs but does not want to be overtightened because that crushes the thin metal tube inside the rubber and that does cause vibration. I've had the tank off a few times to get at wiring and noticed it can be bolted up lop-sided, that's the rear bolt, oops. There's a fair bit of play for adjustment fitting the tank needing three hands and a strategic knee.I've also applied car rubber sill protector (3M, comes on a roll) along the frame top tube under the tank. The tank does not rest on it, it is there to kill vibration and it seems to work by dampening the tube from 'ringing'; any metal tube will ring like a tubular bell and will have harmonic frequencies, rubber makes a good vibration dampener or mute.
But the main culprit for vibration seems to be the front frame down tube, that tube is directly attached to the engine and hanging in the breeze. The silly thing is there is enough room to fit rubber engine mounts like on a car at the front tube.
I found the, also 50s free-flow, exhaust flange wanted to be nipped up concentric and square before hanging the silencer upon the bike, and then rotate the pipe in the flange and twist the silencer about, and bend the silencer stay arm in the vise to fit onto the bike before tightening the fasteners - then ran it and did it all again to get a better fit away from my boot heel and brake lever.
I couldn't get it in and under as far as I'd like because it interferes with the brake lever. Bit of a poor design, besides the brake pedal is supposed to be on the left
But go figure - the exhaust has always been on the right where it never got in the way of the gear lever, the brake pedal is a bodge to get under and around the exhaust pipe.