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[sofiaspin]

Hi all, I am following in Johnny's footsteps - now on the fourth ES Enfield. The latest is a late model AVL Electra X, just 2000 on the clock. The previous owner removed the sprag and gears, and wiring etc. What I would welcome is the latest thinking on restoring Electric Start to the bike and which fixes to adopt, or not. Plus anyone tried the improved sprag and CNC machined gears by Al Andalus Choppers in Spain - see link below on Facebook.

1. Is there a more robust sprag now on the market
2. Merits of our hosts TCI unit
3. Gel or Lithium Ion ES battery
4. Any other suggestions (please don't say 'Do Not Bother with ES on an Electra'!)

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 578&type=3

The plan is to make this AVL go like stink....

[Adrian]

A tougher sprag will obviously help. The two things which seem to kill AVL sprags are repeated back-fires (over a course of time, though no warning is given!), and the engine bouncing back against compression when stopping. The first of these needs the carburettor set up correctly with no air leaks around the manifold. The second either needs a better lever for the valve lifter (an old style handlebar decompressor lever instead of the feeble plastic bit in the L/H switchgear) OR a decompressor valve for the classic Bullet fitted into the AVL head, which I have done:





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As posted elsewhere a top-notch battery makes a huge difference for the E/S, I'd recommend the 14AH Motobatt AGM type. Also check the solenoid wiring and fit (eg) a Honda Goldwing item as a replacement if it's starting to fray.



The plan to make your AVL go like stink is achievable. If you have read all the back posts on this fair enough, but to save you the bother otherwise, talk to Paul Henshaw at Performance Classics, as he was probably the first one to make an Electra-X really rev. Contact details follow, but he also posts here as Bullet Whisperer. http://www.midlandbullets.co.uk/perform ... assics.htm



To go for a fully-tuned 500 AVL you MIGHT want a pre-emptively fitted UK big end pin and sleeved conrod (the factory big end bearing uses the hardened big-end eye in the con-rod as the outer track for the needle roller bearing, Japanese style, and some of the original crank pins used fail prematurely (the hardening flakes off, AAGH!). The gold-plated option would be our hosts' Electra-X performance crankshaft in a good set of eauropean main bearings.



The other items I would want to replace are the cam followers, the AVL versions can snap where the foot joins the stem, if you have an engine apart for any reason it's worth getting the crankcases modified to take the old style followers and guides off the classic Bullet, as they are tougher with thicker stems. You'll also need to modify a couple of 500 classic pushrods to take the AVL pushrod ends if you're doing this, and you also lose the valve lifter mechanism.

Hope this helps!



A.

[Leon Novello]

I won`t say do not bother with an electric start. I will say that most of the charm of a Royal Enfield is lost with them. I think there is something special about kick-starting them, especially in front of a crowd of drunken Harley riders on a pub veranda. Nobody takes notice of electric starting a bike. Just my thoughts on the subject.

[Bullet Whisperer]

I can't imagine wanting to impress any Harley riders, drunk or otherwise myself, but each to their own! The AVL engines can indeed, be made to give a lot more power and fun than standard, without having to spend a fortune. Regards, Paul.

[sofiaspin]

Thanks Adrian for that detailed reply. I am fitting an Amal Mk 1 from our hosts, married to an open exhaust system. See how it goes from there. The idea of a classic valve lifter is a good one, but I will get the standard controls checked and working properly and all fluids replaced. I always kick start my bikes - the ES is a back up for me very useful when you stall in traffic. The ES always works fine with a hot engine in my experience. The only time I impressed a group of Harley owners was when I rode my Velo Clubman with mega into their midst in the middle of a town centre where they were occupying my usual parking spot. Nice bunch with good chat.

[sofiaspin]

Adrian, I meant to ask - which Motoblatt battery is the right one for the Leanburn - mine is an 08
Thanks

[PO51UHD]

This has probably been said before, but the AVL will give years of sprag-free problems if you use the electric leg in conjunction with the valve-lifter. I get the engine spinning with the valve lifted and then drop the lifter to start. I always stop the engine using the valve-lifter rather than the key. 10,000km no problems. I also have Amal & free flow exhaust and it goes a lot better than standard!

Stephen

[sofiaspin]

Stephen I have seen your comments on other posts and agree - I always prime the bike by freeing the clutch, tickle carb, valve lifter to turn engine over, then get piston to correct position and kick, turning off at the end of the run with the valve lifter. The ES is really only a secondary starting mechanism that needs to be used in the right way. It is not a Hinckley Bonnie!

[Adrian]

sofiaspin,



the battery I used was the Motobatt MTBX14AU. This made a huge difference to the willingness of the E/S after various lead acid batteries, and worked fine until the sprag finally went! Check the prices from different suppliers, I think M&P were cheapest at the time.



My Electra-X has the same TCI box that our hosts sell, though mine came from Rex Caunt Racing ten years ago - they used to sell them as part of a budget electronic ignition kit for four stroke racers. It's a Suzuki GS125 item, and IIRC it is supposed to have a few more degrees advance AND retard.



Glad you get on with the valve lifter OK, I never could, especially after the tappet cover cracked and started leaking oil.



A.