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[1950s Bulleteer]

Sorry it's not R/Enfield related but a general enquiry that I hope people here could help me with: I've got a couple of rust spots on my car which I want to stop getting any worse until I get a re-spray. I intend using wither ACF50 or Waxoyl for this, but am worried that it could stop the new paint adhering properly. Which of these would be easier to remove when it is time for the respray? I thought I should dry the area out thoroughly first, maybe with a hairdryer or similar?

[papasmurf]

Do Hammerite do an aerosol paint colour close to the one you need?

[1950s Bulleteer]

That's a good idea papasmurf, I'll pop into the local accessory shop and find out.

[papasmurf]

I use hammerite both sprayed an brushed fairly often on our motorcycles, to stop things getting worse until I can take off what needs painting and take it to the blast cleaners and powder coaters who now have a minimum charge of £25.
(Which is most cases is still cheaper than my attempting to do it myself.)

[Presto]

At the risk of going off on a tangent - but that's what we do on this site!!

I want to put in a word for ACF50 - because I'm convinced that it is a first class product! ACF50 has some qualities other similar product seem not to have - at least not not in my experience.



ACF50 is ‘active’, it ‘creeps’ very successfully wherever moisture can find its way and between two binding components, i.e. a screw and its nut.



I've found it safe to use on all electrical contacts and components, batteries, wiring looms, switch gear and ignition systems - and anywhere on the bike – EXCEPT THE BRAKES!



It effectively prevents road grim and salt from sticking to the machine. A quick wash after a ride – even a ride with the bike white with salt – will clean off the salt and leave the paintwork and metal still protected. It lasts well – once a year application can be sufficient – although I use it more often than that.



Another big advantage is that it stops corrosion progressing – its effect is visible within days of application. It doesn’t remove corrosion but prevents it from developing further.



First class maintenance spray - it really works! As you can tell - I’m sold on the stuff!

[Rattlebattle]

+1 for ACF50. It does what it says on the tin (or would if it came in a tin..) and is easy to remove. It is much better for this sort of thing than WD40

[papasmurf]

Rattlebattle, I second that, I used to have a Yamaha Radian that was somewhat of reluctant dragon starting wise, I was given a can of ACF50 by a friend and "lagged" all the electrics with it, including under the seat and I had no further problems.

[jefrs]

I swear by Waxoyl. Used the stuff for years. But it's a thick goo for protecting steel from rust and it works. It is not a general purpose spray. Inside frame tubes and underside of mudguards, not the electrics. You can't paint over it but if you're going to repaint you have to prep the surface anyway, soap on the wet 'n dry, white spirits etc.

[jefrs]

Hammerite is good, powder coat is better. £25 at local shop as and when they're doing a bigger job the colour you want, black is popular. Very, very tough stuff. No need to clean it up, their blaster takes everything off.

ACF50 the electrics but it doesn't convert rust spots like Waxoyl does. Over-sprayed Waxoyl (black or clear) is a pest but you can paint it on. Let it cure and wipe off excess.

Horses for courses.



Autoglym High Definition Wax (carnauba) and Rim Wax both leave a tough wipe-off surface on the shiny bits.

[Simon D]

As Presto Said.