- Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:39 pm
#54874
Well I'm coming to DennisC's opinion that the new bikes are being sent out badly set up.
The stock ECU map is poor and lumpy. My original OEM HT cap was not screwed into the HT lead which of course caused poor sparking on the WR7DDC4. Proper non-resistor cap replacement (requires "R" type plug). The CGT's plug is the ever-so slightly hotter WQR8DC, both this and the WR7DDC4 are equivalent to the NGK BPR6ES. I just happen to have some BPR5ES from an old car (Nova?) and the BPR6ES is prolly the lawnmower. The indian plugs look poorly made.
The soft soot is gone or going. I do not mean normal hard blackening. This soot appeared when sparks went missing. The BPR6ES is now the 'right' colour so that does appear to be the right plug for the EFI-500. It's not missing now and the soft soot is going, my conclusion is missing sparks caused sooting from unburnt fuel. Plug gap appears to be important, too small a gap didn't fire right, 0.7-0.8mm seems to be correct (as per handbook). The 0.020-in gap stated elsewhere is wrong for this engine; the electronic system produces a big fat spark. I can go maybe four years without even looking at spark plugs in the car so I hope this is the last time I have to look at the sparks on the bike now I've fixed it.
I replaced the silencer because I didn't like the look of the original towing a log one, have you felt the weight of them? That produces a small issue with the mix so I added the K&N which then needs the PCv. The PCv actually does its job well. The O2/Lambda does practically nothing in the first place so it's no loss. There is a wide-range sensor for the PCv but requires a larger 'bung' welded into the pipe, I'm not too bothered.
It shouldn't need aftermarket to make it work as it should in the first place but there you are, soot and sparks sorted.
The stock ECU map is poor and lumpy. My original OEM HT cap was not screwed into the HT lead which of course caused poor sparking on the WR7DDC4. Proper non-resistor cap replacement (requires "R" type plug). The CGT's plug is the ever-so slightly hotter WQR8DC, both this and the WR7DDC4 are equivalent to the NGK BPR6ES. I just happen to have some BPR5ES from an old car (Nova?) and the BPR6ES is prolly the lawnmower. The indian plugs look poorly made.
The soft soot is gone or going. I do not mean normal hard blackening. This soot appeared when sparks went missing. The BPR6ES is now the 'right' colour so that does appear to be the right plug for the EFI-500. It's not missing now and the soft soot is going, my conclusion is missing sparks caused sooting from unburnt fuel. Plug gap appears to be important, too small a gap didn't fire right, 0.7-0.8mm seems to be correct (as per handbook). The 0.020-in gap stated elsewhere is wrong for this engine; the electronic system produces a big fat spark. I can go maybe four years without even looking at spark plugs in the car so I hope this is the last time I have to look at the sparks on the bike now I've fixed it.
I replaced the silencer because I didn't like the look of the original towing a log one, have you felt the weight of them? That produces a small issue with the mix so I added the K&N which then needs the PCv. The PCv actually does its job well. The O2/Lambda does practically nothing in the first place so it's no loss. There is a wide-range sensor for the PCv but requires a larger 'bung' welded into the pipe, I'm not too bothered.
It shouldn't need aftermarket to make it work as it should in the first place but there you are, soot and sparks sorted.