Forum

[mauri]

the SR is the easiest solution, as its a direct mount and has the atd for the advance.



it is also easy to adapt other atd’s to use with the SR magneto as long as they are left turning and have the same degrees in advance, springs.

as you can find in this thread.



the L and M magnetos can be adapted to, but in both case you’ll need a flange.

the atd can also be adapted to both of these, but you will need to fiddle a bit to get the alignment correct.

[mauri]

also if you adapt another atd to fit the enfield.



depending on the original use of the atd there can be a thick or thin end plate.



with the thicker end plate there is a space of 4mm between the end plate and the pinion.

for the thinner end plate its a distance of 5mm.

[WJS]

Hmmm cost of a decent SR1 with the correct ATD is going to far exceed a decent electronic ignition set up which is a shame. Only drawback is the need for a battery really and the extra wires etc. Does anyone know if the used part in the ignition section of Used Parts and Bikes is a complete ATD with pinion or does it need adaptation? The image is not clear..

[mauri]

That's a right turning one for the twins.

[Adrian]

The one shown in the used section is for a twin engine which has a sprocket, not a gear. I gather it also runs in the opposite direction to the auto a/r unit fitted on Redditch Bullets. There doesn't seem to be any shortage of SR1 magnetos, only the a/r units!



The newer BT-H flange mounted electronic magnetos DO work nicely on the Bullet, my AVL hybrid runs one, as will my Not a Fury, and Count Johnny who posts on here occasionally has one fitted to his low rider Bullet custom. The good news is that these have electronic advance and retard built in, so you can use the plain drive pinion off the contact breaker drive, the taper is the same. HOWEVER the bad news is that they are not a simple bolt on fit, as the K1F flange has a larger diameter centre boss than the SR1, and the mounting stud holes on the BT-H magneto flange are too far apart to line up with the holes in the Indian Bullet timing cover. You have to get the magneto body machined to fit Bullet crankcase. I have tried using the RE twin magneto adapter plate, but it moves the magneto too far out and the timing pinion then won't fit because it fouls the crankcase! Forget the adapter plate... If the BT-H still appeals, talk to Bullet Whisperer as he has fitted three. BT-H also sell a platform mounted version, which will let you play with mounting straps, mounting plates and shims to get everything lined up properly...



Another option is an electronic update on the old flywheel magneto. Our hosts sell the PVL crank-mounted CDI ignition which replaces the alternator. Great for competition use but no use for the street as there are no lighting coils. However, Electrex World sell a version which does include lighting coils, have a look at their STK-100D stator kit, quite a bit cheaper than a BT-H magneto too:



http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog ... d_350.html



FAILING THAT if you want to run battery-less you can just replace the battery with a 2MC capacitor, so long as your alternator and regulator/rectifier are in good condition. The 4 wire alternator will already be running the headlamp on AC via a regulator, quite separate from the DC side. Quite a few people are running a capacitor successfully with points and coil ignition. If you want to do this with electronic ignition, make sure you use one that won't go full advance at low voltage, like the Boyer Bransden Mk3! The Pazon Surefire still claims to work well with less than full voltage, although the Boyer Mk4 was allegedly brought out with the low voltage problem sorted.



Hope this helps.



A.

[WJS]

Thanks for the advice. The electrex kit looked spot on but unfortunately reading the small print it wont fit my bike with an aluminium clutch cover.

BTH mag is out the question financially!

So that gets me back to the SR1 which was the preferred route as it reduces require wiring to a minimum.
Mauri - what would be involved do you think in converting an ATD to fit on the standard distributor pinion?
I noticed this item on a well known auction Bay :
301846302635
It seems to be almost identical to the correct enfield/lucas part.

Cheers

[mauri]

i will first point out that a revised SR1 with a original or adapted ATD will be in the €700-€800 price range.



if you are interested are host do sell a revised one at the moment.






on non revised SR1 is about 60 years old and could still be running fine but take in consideration that a revision would be necessary.



if your bullet is indeed a 2001 it does not have the stator on the inside of the cover, and so there should be no problem mounting the electrex kit!!!!!?.



mounting this kit would be a cheaper and good alternative to any magneto.



taking an ATD apart is not rocket science put you need a decent mechanical background!.






putting in back together involves riveting and a correct interference fit for example.

[Adrian]

All the best with the SR1 option, I'm not sure that a/r unit on ebay would work, you'd have to check the direction of rotation was correct and the gear wheel had the right diameter/number of teeth/tooth form, etc.



The small print warning on the Electrex World site is misleading, sadly! **ALL** the Bullets have aluminium clutch covers, but if you read their note again carefully they mention the kit is not for those with alternator stator mounted in the clutch/primary cover, which in the UK means the Electra-X model, not the classic Bullet. The STK100D **WILL** fit the standard classic Indian Bullet fitted with a Lucas-type alternator (I have an earlier version), though this slip-up might be costing them a few sales. This is the sort of primary/clutch cover and stator set-up they are referring to as unsuitable, in order to try and avoid excessive numbers of returned items:







A.

[WJS]

Ah thanks Adrian that is good news about the electrex kit. I was thinking it was only suited the old 350 Indian Market "Enfield" Bullet which did have a chromed tin clutch cover at various times I recall. None of the parts diagrams seem to show the 4 wire acdc alternator and as I have just got as far as examining the 4 wires sticking out the clutch cover ... well its easy to jump to conclusions!

I think on balance the electrex kit is the way to go. Bang for the buck (literally) and weight saving. I can always mount a gutted scrap SR1 in place of the redundant distributor and perhaps conceal the coil inside the shell!

I'd be interested to know what kind of output the electrex lighting coil produces but as I am only planning on front headlight and rear stop tail it shouldnt be an issue.

thanks again

[John M]

If you use a Lucas 2MC capacitor you do not require a battery, I have a Eureka electronic ignition system and Lucas 2MC type capacitor on one of my Bullets, which works with a three wire alternator. It starts reliably and runs happily with the lights on.
I also have a trials Bullet that has a fixed timing Lucas SR1. This also works well and starts reliably, but it can't half kick back if you get the technique wrong.