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[jefrs]

The main reason I don't recommend the actual lighting circuit is not so much that you must have the lights on to use the socket but that circuit is already drawing the most current, the 60/55W headlamp, the ecu is miles away from the handlebars but the signalling circuit (indicators, brake lamps and horns) is there. Otoh the ignition switch is easy to identify whereas the rest of the plumbers nightmare is not, especially as the socket has its own 2A in-line fuse. Now I do intend to put a socket in for my iPhone, it has a satnav of sorts too, but to use the phone I pull over and stop and for that I may well want an always-on supply.

[Scalyback]

I'll just pop this in again then,,,


Tee into the power lead that feeds the front brake light switch. add an inline fuse of about 5 A in case something shorts



Iron barrel bullet, blue (like many others)

EFI brown (also like many others



It powers up with the ignition. Does not depend on the lights. Pop an inline or whatever 5A fuse and off you go!

[jefrs]

Scalyback - that is a good place and it's not on the main lighting circuit. Nigel's socket does have a 2A in-line fuse. However inside the casquette are a pair of formless rubber gaiters concealing everything and wires are not easy to identify. Do not rely on the colour code. I've been in there fitting the tacho and changing the nearly all the bulbs (complete headlamp, three pilots, MIL instruments). The ignition switch is fused but then the feed has to run back to the fuse box and then forwards to the casquette again. Two feeds come forwards, the lighting (60/55W headlamp etc) and signalling (brakes, indicators, horn); the ECU is on its own fuse in the electrics box; these three fuses seem to run in series from the main fuse. For myself I prefer always-on because I may use the phone at the side of the road, unplug to disconnect, but that's me. Always-on aka direct to battery (albeit through the main fuse) also provides a charge point.

[nigelphoto]

All fitted now and, despite my worst fears (wiring not my strong point!), it works and I didn't fuse anything or melt the bike down in an electrical fire! I used followed Chris from RetroVenture's suggestion (thanks mate) and piggybacked the sat nav leads to the pilot light in the casquette. Very simple and effective solution. PS Thanks for (most) of the Armchair Brigadiers for sitting this one out . . . . you know who you are!

[jefrs]

Nigel - I do apologise for carping on. However I must say the lighting is not the best place for pull more power off even if Chris does pro installations there and the pilot is easy to find. The lighting is fused at 10A and runs the headlamp and tail. The dip switch is make-before-break meaning both filaments come on before the other goes out. The lamp is 60/55W plus the 5W tail which can draw (5+60+55)/12= 10 amps, which is what the fuse is, plus all the little instrument and pilot lamps is another ~16 watts. It won't bust into flames but you might find yourself suddenly riding in darkness, prince of darkness stuff, scary. I doubt that will happen because the load of satnav+phone is trivial and the fuses slo-blow.

The 10A lighting fuse is already fully loaded.

There's no lack of power from the alternator, it probably could run a toaster and the battery can spin that engine round, no lack of power there. It's the fuses, they blow if and when you exceed their rated current. The signalling, that's brake, indicators and horn can draw 21+(2x10)+30 watts (my pair of horns eat 60W) = 71W so 6Amps on the 10A fuse so there's plenty of spare capacity (even with my twin Bosch horns) - if you like the socket on a switched supply, that's the front brake switch supply.



The red fuses are 10A, the blue main fuse is 15A & imo the main fuse can be safely upgraded to 20A (yellow) like other models have it.



I calculate everything on all at once, horn and flashing the headlamp whilst indicating at night etc etc, to be ~215 watts, that's close to 18 Amps so I'm trying to figure out what they were thinking of by fitting a 15A main fuse. The CSA of the wiring is well up to carrying max current.



I have now fitted the DIN outlet at the side of the speedo bracket inside the casquette, the mini-DIN/USB has just arrived and will peek out of the back of the casquette neatly whilst clearing the tank, now awaiting iPhone mount to unused mirror thread.