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[Nobbi1977]

Not fitted auto tune yet. I am a fair weather fairy so it will get fitted over winter and then run April onwards.

I thought about the breather tube just because it looks like it made from the worst rubber ever.

[jefrs]

The breather rubber is good, but I really didn't think feeding unfiltered oil condensate through to the clean side of the air filter was a terribly good idea. Plus one can hear it vibrating the air box which wants still air. On one hand on the induction stroke the crankcase is expelling 500cc of stuff so it acts like a mini-supercharger, otoh it's the wrong stuff and it messes up the fuel vaporisation and the piston is well capable of sucking in its own air.

[jefrs]

Well I've bitten the bullet and ordered an AT-200. I found one deal offering the PCv and AT-200 for less than a PCv but I don't need another one. I don't want to tune the balls off it but I would like the bottom end less all or nothing, it's better than it was but not to my liking yet. And yes, a carb would be better 'cos they're easier to play with and this seems like the best way of adjusting the ECU in a similar manner. One thing noted online in PCv 'tutorials' is that no two bikes are the same and each one needs individual tweaking. Stuff to learn, measure twice cut once and remember to backup the original map.

[Nobbi1977]

It would be good to post maps and compare seat of the pants differences.

What pipe and filter are you running? I have a pipercross filter and Hitchcocks cheap Indian end can.

[jefrs]

I have no idea how we could post maps. I don't know that we can PM anyone to get email etc, the files are small.

Pipe is Hitchcocks' 50s free-flow system 91130, filter is K&N. Breather filter is who-knows from Halfords.

[jefrs]

and that squished the pic, doh!

[jefrs]

I have acquired an Autotune AT-200 but it has an 18mm O2 Sensor not the 12mm hole that's there. DynoJet are supposed to be getting back to me with solutions.

The PCv houses two maps which can be swapped by a cheap on/off switch (Map1/Map2). The pukka one is 50 quid, no.

The PCv not only remaps fuel injector but also ignition advance/retard.

No two bikes being the same, one way to fine tune it without a dyno would be to run a 'test' map in the second position.

I am less interested in 'race' tuning than usable running. Apparently the popping on closing the throttle is often caused by the mix going weak and might be remedied by increasing the fuel at low throttle opening above idle; this is normally set to default zero change. There is some breathlessness at full throttle at high speed, the map reverts to default at full throttle and high revs; most of the PVc map changes are mid-range.

[Nobbi1977]

I was just going to weld the bigger bung in the standard position on the exhaust. I am sure I can do a better job than what was fitted originally.

I need to look more at the PCV maps because at the moment the rev range goes far to high. I am wondering if I can do a map with higher resolution that stops at about 6k

[jefrs]

The ECU does have a rev limiter at something like 5700rpm which cuts the ignition. I found it when I stamped on the brake pedal except I'm used to that on the left so I hit the gears, oops but I missed the car cutting me up. The engine died and needed to be switched off to reset the ECU before it would restart. I do not know how the rev range can be extended beyond that.

Have you looked at the map numbers? The one I have installed does not go very high, it tapers off to default zeroes at high revs. The PCv of words says setting to zeroes terminates the map.

Which map do you have?



DynoJet did advise not fitting the bigger plug where the 12mm one is because one would be drilling and welding onto weld which never goes well. However the 12mm plug is in exactly the right place; it is too small diameter to be tapped out to M18x1.50

[jefrs]

I have started to play with the bottom end of the map, to stop popping and to make shut-off and pick-up less lurchy. The map switch is a mini-toggle on/off from Maplins costing less than three quid, now mounted through a convenient hole in my lowered solo seat bracket; the real deal is about £50. That shorts "Input 1" pins 1&2 (or "Input 2" 3&4) but you have to run the software "Configuration" to activate two maps. Some success with that by enriching the zero throttle at the bottom end, I have been able to drop the idle below 900rpm but if it drops below 700rpm the decompressor operates and kills the motor (it's supposed to actuate at 350rpm). Can't do much but educated-guess without the AT-200



I have found welding services for the 18mm bung at a local garage I know

but I may want to start with a fresh down pipe and use the oem finned exhaust ring which will mean grinding off the original pipe bung to get it off

The reason for that is the one fitted now has blued and the finned ring does look better, is stiffer and allegedly prevents bluing. The after market 'ring' is a chromed steel plate and looks out of place. The finned ring has to be fitted before the bung is welded on.

By the looks of it, the PCv can be set up for both two maps and the Autotune but using switches on moth 'Map Inputs'