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[PeteF]

I might be over cautious but I always change the oil at 100 miles on new engines (or 5 hours on mowers etc)
It's those first miles that produce the fine swarf in a new engine.

When running in, it's far more important to not let the engine slog than rev. Ride it on twisty roads so you're up and down the revs and gearbox as much as possible. Actual speed matters less than throttle opening.

[2cvandy]

Beezabryan Subject: running in
"All tractors have rear wheel brakes" - Oh how I chortled, so funny, I've never heard that one before,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[ric]

jefrs

[ric]

Ooops,for some reason half my post failed to appear!



jefrs. The brake rod and brake arm when the brake is fully applied should make an angle of 90 degrees for maximum efficiency. I reduced my efficiency by undoing the 7/16"(26tpi)nut, pulled the brake arm off the cam spindle splines and rotated it so the trunnion moves further back along the threaded section of the brake rod and the angle between arm and rod is more acute, ie less effective.

[pd110961]

Thanks guys.. I spoke to the shop (bike not ready yet.. waiting for DVLA).. they say 45-50mph but no full throttle and no chugging, so we seem to concur.

I intended buying a Bullet 500.. but got to the shop in Grantham and they had the last of a special deal that Enfield had helped them with.. a cream and red Classic, with sprung standard riders seat and fitted separate pillion seat.. not a tiny pad like I had seen.. the Mrs loved it, and at £4200 brand new it was job done.

The only little hitch is that I had made the enquiry at a Halifax dealer and they had said if I put down half I could have half on interest free credit over 2 years. The Grantham dealer offered to match this, THEN came back to me yesterday saying that the 2 year deal was not an offer Enfield was sponsoring, so the dealer oop north must have made a mistake. I emailed said dealer and it was confirmed that the 2 year deal was correct. I've been back to my Grantham dealer and they say they have so little profit in it that its either over 1 year OR over 2 years interest free but with a £60 surcharge. I've gone with the 1 year. It wa snot a deal breaker, but it annoyed me a little.

[Thunderdird 2]

I was speaking to a dealer the other week who gave me the impression that most dealers are struggling to sell any Enfields, new or 'pre-owned'.
Commented 'I've got a shop full of bike's (mixed makes) and only one leaks oil.....guess which one!'
Wasn't interested in a Px R.E for R.E at any cost.
Within reason it seems to be a buyers market, I got quite a bit knocked off my Electra for cash but then again had to drop a bit on the T/Bird which I had to sell privately.
We used to hear a lot of promotion from Watsonian but don't hear much from the new one, part of the problem?
Terry

[jefrs]

pd110961 - the running in really, really does mean 35-40 mph maximum for the first 300 miles (first service time when the bike should be fully checked over).

Thereafter 45-50 mph max to 600 miles. Service intervals are done in kilometres - 500km (1st/full monty), 3000km (check/adjust), 6000km (oil change) and so on [500km = 300 miles]



I got my bike from Hayballs in Salisbury, paid cash in full, they've been in the m/c business since the 60s, love british classic bikes and know what they're doing with them. I was impressed by their mechanic. I'm an engineer, it takes a lot to impress me

You will feel the motor loosen up. Not everyone can feel and hear what a motor is going, it's an acquired art. I reckon it's as sweet as a nut but not fully run in yet.

Even now with 1000 miles on it I don't hold it on full throttle. That brief 75mph on my vid on the roman roller-coaster road was only about 70%, the tacho saying it's about 4200rpm, red line is what, 5500rpm(?). I believe the ecu has a rev-limiter, I've not found it (yet).



Some of the key issues when running in is feeding the power in gently, limiting the revs, not letting it slog or knock bottom. Fourth gear knocks bottom at 30mph, no good. Third gear is maybe a little high for 30-mph depending on yo-yo cage traffic and Gatsos. In other works don't let the motor work hard.

Otoh that's doesn't mean drive like your granny in a supermarket car park, the bike has a fair bit of poke even being gentle with her. Even with 'only' 27bhp it is defo not a 125cc. Ride along with a jap twin and you'll hear them swapping cogs every two seconds whilst the Bullet power band just goes on for ever. It's very flexible, you don't have to keep changing gear.

The power shoots up around 4500 and the exhaust note changes to a higher pitch bark, at the moment that's telling me to change up.

Looking at the oil can also tell you what's going on. At present the oil is lovely and clean with no nasty bits in it.



Most new cars engines are pre-run in at the factory on gas. So not the case with these bikes.

You do not do the initial running in over 40mph, the engine is too tight and will damage it.

[jefrs]

Other thought - you may have trouble keeping it below 40mph running in, especially in top gear. We are also running in the gearbox, that doesn't want to go round too fast either. So if you can get it in top without using more than say, quarter throttle, do so but you'll probably find it is doing 45-50mph. That initial 35-40mph really means don't run it constantly over that, be very gentle with the engine. Letting it slog is probably as bad as revving it too high or making it work too hard. You won't have a tacho so listen to the exhaust note.

This makes me worry about buying ex-demonstrators because they'll not have been run in properly but thrashed from the outset.

[Rattlebattle]

On most bikes the front brake is easily the more effective. Weight transference loads the front tyre, creating a larger contact patch leading to more grip and more effective braking force. By contrast the rear contact patch diminishes, potentially leading to a skid. That said, the rear brake on my old pre-unit Triumph is a lot more effective than the half-width drum brake at the front, which is barely adequate to compress the forks. The rear brake has massive leverage by comparison owing to the long foot brake pedal. A lot of the old Brit bikes (pre twin leader drum and disc front brakes) were like this so you really had to use both together. But on an RE with a disc front brake there is no question that that is the most one that provides more stopping power. The rear brake on mine is next to useless anyway. Not grounded my pedal out yet, but I will😀

[jefrs]

Rattlebattle - it beggars the question why Chennai put star washers and graunch the bolts up tight on the brake spindle plate, then spray paint over it for good measure, on a part that is supposed to slide. Mine is well and truly glued on, an easy-peasy job for the weekend 'cos Friday is wiring a heater into the shed