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By jefrs
#52049
OT - but it's the same engine type - I've just disconnected the engine breather from the (K&N) air filter box, hose off and substituted a Halfords (cheap and cheerful) 'vent filter' at the engine. Reason - I found a tiny dribble of oil mayonnaise from the hose inside air box, on the 'clean' side of the air filter. This is vapour thrown out, not a leak, quite normal.

Not a lot of difference but a noticeable wow! to the mid-range.
By Mudplugger
#52055
Thanks Jefrs, I'll hadn't thought about car relays and was about to email hitchcocks about a spares book. I'll look into the lamps also!! Cheers
By Michael
#52139
The waterproofing of the relays is poor - when you change them, clean up the contacts of the bases too, or if required you might have to buy 4 or 5 female connectors and make your own. Also, the pump/injector relay gets a live feed directly via a fused line from the battery... If you have rusty relays then this line may suffer due to the higher resistance. Check the fuse contacts too, and the state of the wire... I had a firey incident originating here before. My ref-rect was also goosed, but corrosion on the loom was a big factor. Waterproof EVERYTHING that you see
By jefrs
#52169
Our pair of bikes are really not old enough to have any serious corrosion.

With an overyly critical eye, the wire used seems good, the spade crimps made well too but the spade connectors are perhaps a little weak and may need squeezing with the pliers if they're been on and off a few times. The wiring is a little short in places, not enough stretch and not well routed. The block connectors are too bulky but they work. The black tape wrap they used is not very sticky, overwrap it with best black sticky back plastic PVC insulating tape (3M 'Scotch' or Lasocvic for choice). The fuses inserted in Chenai were a bit mottled looking, corroded aluminium i.e. blows lower than it should. Cheap as chips to replace but beware there are two similar shapes used on cars, different size fitting; I seem to have 15A, 15A and 20A (not all three at 20A).

Pulling connectors on and off does weaken them but does chip off the oxide layer and cleans them up; if in doubt put the ohmmeter on the circuit. Cheap relays = poor contact points but they make billions of these things for cars so the best are pretty cheap.

Some waterproofing sprays (Silicone Oil) are good insulators, not ideal for connections; try Servisol 'Contact Cleaner' (note their similar 'Switch Cleaner' has oil in it, possibly a better waterproofing).



I'm about to fit twin Bosche fanfare klaxons, the type used on some emergency vehicles. I had three of them on the AMG, they look like ordinary black lump horns only they're LOUD!

They draw a bit more juice but we've got a 3-phase alternator that can supply everything we never wanted, and some models come with a pair of horns in the first place; should not need an extra relay, the wiring diameter looks good for 25A (there's always a good safety margin), may need to upgrade the fuse to 30A. I got a lucky bag full of good ones.
By jefrs
#52178
The Bosch horns which say they want a 30A fuse did not blow a 10A 'cos I checked it with a sacrificial 10A fse, no fuses blew on horns even with dip beam+flash+indicators+brakes on, nor did any wires melt. Bike horns now sound like a german taxi.



My bad, actual fuses are 10A, 10A and 15A (senior moment, must learn to check) - Not as shown on diagram nor as shown in owner's manual.
By jefrs
#52208
stevewatkin - the horns were Bosch 0986AH0503 Fanfare Horn (black snails) off Amazon UK and they're car horns, the ebay ones are described as 'mini' bike horns and look like they have a shorter mounting arm (and cost more). http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C ... ge_o07_s00. I can't guarantee they won't blow your wiring other than they didn't on my new model; used continuously they could make the wiring get warm. They are louder and lower pitch, if you've heard a Merc E-Klass honk, that's them.

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